ozbilt wrote:Oh yes, I forgot about those that have the need to compensate .......
Booster problems???? Don't recall seeing one on an original disc braked 66.
The leverage came from the pedal, something which closer resembles a penis than a large rotor don't you think?
They raced them for years like that, still do. We must have turned into weaklings nowdays.
Probably too much time spent online (forums) rather than exercise .....
ozbilt wrote:Oh yes, I forgot about those that have the need to compensate .......
Booster problems???? Don't recall seeing one on an original disc braked 66.
The leverage came from the pedal, something which closer resembles a penis than a large rotor don't you think?
They raced them for years like that, still do. We must have turned into weaklings nowdays.
Probably too much time spent online (forums) rather than exercise .....
interestingly i rarely get calls for 65-66 manual brake issues and when I do its usually someone thinking its odd not having a booster rather than there being an actual problem or calipers needing a reco.
Manual set ups are all about the pedal ratio and you have accept you are not going to have a firm "modern" feeling pedal. The 65-66 run a 6.5:1 ratio from memory which is pretty much on the money. That combined with a 1" (Factory) or if you dont mind a little travel 15/16" master results in decent line pressure for most calipers for the average person. Noting there can be a huge difference in pressures from dwarf to giants in the general population.
I set up a Capri a few months back with 15/16" master which was fine for my 5'10" slightly tubby frame, but the 6'3" unit that owns the car jumped in and mashed the pedal to the floor!
But the 65-66 Manual pedal set works pretty well. Some Kelsey Hayes calipers would go fine, if you wanted a little extra piston area the Baers work well. You cant afford to cheap out on pads and rotors though, the lack of friction will be more noticeable when you dont have ooddles of pressure to play with.
Pretty quiet in here lately. Too many people spending money on chrissy presents instead of car parts I think.
Anyway update for mine is that it is most likely going to go in storage for 2-4 years. I say most likely because I have put a couple feelers out there to sell it, but I have somewhere to store it now for free so not too fussed either way. If it sells I'll just invest the money somewhere and build something a bit more wild later on.
I went with an under-guard VH 40/44 booster from Hydroboost in Victoria. Not expensive and they made sure I got the right size booster first go to match my brakes. They do exchange and outright and powdercoat them if you are putting them under the guard. I'm running a 1" master cylinder with rear drums and 320 mm BF Turbo front rotors and BF dual spot calipers and I can lock the fronts in a panic stop without too much pedal pressure if I want to, it slows down quickly and controllably now rather than always hoping it would stop in time with the old disc brake setup.
Checkout my car builds - edzv8s.com
66 Convertible Bench Seat AODE 3.5 9"
Hey fellas it's not my funeral, you can still spend my money
When I say plan my next build I mean start my next build...just trying to figure out the best way to do it right now. Would like to get a body and spend the next 2-4 years paying someone to do the bodywork so by the time I get back the body is done and I can start on the fun stuff.
Cheers to everyone, I will still be here showing you pics of my new camry in dubai
