Project Pheonix

[rkmiller73]

Looking good!

[66STNG]

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I water tested the screens today, and all is good. She got a bath today, test fit the dash cluster, and it actually works??? Install the water squirters, and cowl seal.

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Finished off the dynamat.
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[66STNG]

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Instead of painting the A pillars, I decided on trying roof lining, moon skin. I think it looks OK..

[Nuts]

Looking good Fella!!

[nassi]

Ooohh, down hill run. You will enjoy this I am sure.

[66STNG]

Bonnet, guards and front valance on today. No real issues , will need a little tweaking. I'm not too happy with the gap at the window. Can anyone advise of what the gap should be from the fender to door.. this may help with the fender to window gap.

[hybrid]

My gap is similar to that I think.
Repro guards or original?

[66STNG]

My gap is similar to that I think.
Repro guards or original?

Left hand sid is original..I think it's the only original panel on it .

[66STNG]

Any idea what the front fender to door cap should be, or more to the point the least amount of gap so They don't hit?

[nassi]

That is a bit of a "how long is a piece of string" question. The door has to miss the fender and both are adjustable on three planes.
Call Kerry.

[Shaunp]

Depends on the car and how you had it before you painted it really

[Edz66Vert]

On other cars I've worked on with people who had a lot of experience, we generally adjusted the guard first to get an even gap to the screen, then the door so the gap is even at each end, all without hitting. Around 3mm is what we aimed for, but they'd had a lot of panel beating and fit-up prior to painting. However, you may find 3mm (20c piece?)is a bit close depending on how good the panels are, the last thing you'd want to do is have it chip the new paint job.

Not the sort of job to do on your own, it helps to have 3 people to do the adjustment; one inside the car loosening and tightening, one outside holding the door handle to make slight adjustments and you standing at the front door gap watching how close it gets as it's opened and shut. Saves a lot of heartache.

[66STNG]

On other cars I've worked on with people who had a lot of experience, we generally adjusted the guard first to get an even gap to the screen, then the door so the gap is even at each end, all without hitting. Around 3mm is what we aimed for, but they'd had a lot of panel beating and fit-up prior to painting. However, you may find 3mm (20c piece?)is a bit close depending on how good the panels are, the last thing you'd want to do is have it chip the new paint job.

Not the sort of job to do on your own, it helps to have 3 people to do the adjustment; one inside the car loosening and tightening, one outside holding the door handle to make slight adjustments and you standing at the front door gap watching how close it gets as it's opened and shut. Saves a lot of heartache.

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Yeah I agree, you need a few bodies, the gaps are OK, not perfect but not too bad, I just wanted the front fender to come up further than it does. I didn't have the windscreen trim on when I gapped it, I think that's where I stuffed up, I may be able to squeeze a little more out of the fender to door gap??
. I hope!!!!!
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[Nuts]

On these mustangs always set the gap you want at the rear quarter first then work forward. I usually start with 3/16 and see how things line up. Oz will correct me if I'm wrong.

[66STNG]

On these mustangs always set the gap you want at the rear quarter first then work forward. I usually start with 3/16 and see how things line up. Oz will correct me if I'm wrong.

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The quarter to door gap is ok, it's the fender to windscreen that sux.