Edz 66 Convertible

[Edz66Vert]

So I went for a burn today to Bunnings and an hour later I thought I'd go for another run before the rain - and she died!

Luckily I was still in the 50 zone and was able to through it left and put the hazards on. When it dies, the airhorn went off, If I rotated the wheel slightly into a different position I could stop it, I ended up ripping the wire off the compressor in the grille.

Just about everything was dead, if I turned the key on, nothing worked except the electric roof, which was lucky as a 'red' storm was coming over (on the radar).

The cigarette lighter had power as it comes from the direct battery power circuit I put in and the battery at the back had power. The main battery breaker works fine (I jumped it in case). The interior lights come on but when I turn the key on they go out yet the convertible roof only gets power when the key is on?

Ideas?

[Nuts]

Take it back to the Idiot who did your wiring job!!

[Edz66Vert]

I already did, he looked in the mirror and had another cider and said, 'I'll deal with it tomorrow'!

[Edz66Vert]

[hybrid]

So much customisation - would be very hard for any of us to even guess what it might be.
Ignition switch would be my first guess though.

[Edz66Vert]

Thanks Hybrid. yes, the wiring is rabid, all going to be ripped out with a new harness when I go RHD.

The clue was the horn going off and getting stuck on, only stopping when I turned the wheel when the car shut down?

My question is, why are there two spring loaded contacts on the column that touch 2 rings under the steering wheel? They both have power?

If I short the inner one, it blows the fuse, shutting the car down. If I short the outer one, it turns the horn on?

Is the inner one meant to be the earth for the horn button?

[hybrid]

Short them to where? Earth or 12v?
Disconnect the horn before you measure just to be sure.

The horn switch mechanisms have been known to be shitty.
But only the yellow side should obviously have the perm 12v going to it.

If 482 has power on it with the horns disconnected and the wheel off, you have a short somewhere. Maybe a couple of wires have melted together.

[Edz66Vert]

That's what I figured. I'll chase it down, thanks for that.

[ants]

Looking at the wiring diagram you posted, the yellow wire (460) picks up 12v power from the light switch. That is probably the contract you shorted to earth and in turn ble the fuse. When you press the horn pad power passes through the the pad to the other contact, power then goes through the second spring loaded contact and through blue yellow wire (482) to the horn and the to earth making the horn operate. If you get a test lamp, put the earth wire on a clean metal surface and probe both contacts, the one that blew the fuse should have power and the other should have nothing. If it tests as I've just said get a piece of electrical wire and bridge the 2 contacts without touching anything else with the bare wire. If the horn blows the horn circuit is fine and the problem is most likely the horn pad somewhere, I had a similar problem a few years ago where the horn would go off when turning corners and the steering wheel reached a certain position.
As for the engine stopping while driving, I've got nothing.

[Edz66Vert]

Thanks for that Ant, I'll test it that way.

the engine stopped because I have a separate ignition relay circuit to turn a bunch of things on with ignition on like the ICE ignition and MSD Fuel Injection so when the horn shorted it blew a fuse. Didn't spot it when I stopped.

My brakes were too good so I hopefully fixed them this week. I'm running a VH40AL under the guard for the front brakes. The car had XF callipers & disks when I bought it as they wouldn't register it with drums when it came in to Aus with the 351. I upgraded to Falcon Turbo discs and BF Callipers and they work great but are too powerful, locking the front brakes if I panic hit them like when I nearly ran over two Chinese guys crossing the road diagonally while using there phones. Hydroboost said I have the wrong pedal ratio, 5.5:1 and need to change to 4.5:1 so I fitted this $118 kit from Scott Drake on eBay. I also welded an auto pedal pad to my manual brake lever so it's the right size now. Testing it today.

Also, if you need to bleed brakes, this $14 Ballards Brake Bleed for motorbikes (eBay) works great as a one man bleeder on a Mustang, has a pressure valve that only lets fluid through when you press the brake pedal and then seals up.

[Edz66Vert]

Forgot to say, bought a fibreglass bonnet ($725) for my convertible and side scoops the same as my current car for the coupe I have to build ($120)from a guy who makes them in Victoria - hope it fits!
This is the link: https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/carrum- ... 1181995369



Also bought a rear wing, always loved the wings on GT Falcons. Not everyone's cup of tea but I want one. $289 from Custom Mustangs in Vic, posted for free since the guy doing the bonnet lives around the corner and offered to pic it up and soft bonnet springs and put it all together in an amazing crate, built and couriered for $150.



This is the crate it all came in, must have taken 2 hours to build, very neat construction inside and out.

[Edz66Vert]

So my Yella Terra Roller rockers started making a high rattling /ticking sound as they came back to idle. Pulled them out on the noisy side and they are scored? The oil is changed every 12 months, Penrite HPR30 (20w-60) as recommended by my engine builder.
Thoughts? No 3 (the third pic) is the worse.