The Shelby Drop
During hard cornering the Mustang body had a tendency to lift a wheel off the pavement and to plow in to the turn.
Klaus Arning, Ford's own suspension engineer, redesigned the front end of the car by lowering the inner pivot of the upper control arms exactly one inch.
Lowering the body resulted in greater changes in the wheel camber during cornering, keeping the wheels vertical to the ground.
It also lowered the front end's roll center and reduced the body's plowing.
To further stiffen the front end, a 1.00 inch anti-roll bar replaced the stock .84 inch stock GT bar. The live, rear axle was held in place with a 4-leaf, semi-elliptical leaf spring and beefy torque reaction arms sitting on top of the axle and anchored through the floor to the chassis.
These changes made the car handle more quickly and precisely.
Klaus Arning, Ford's own suspension engineer, redesigned the front end of the car by lowering the inner pivot of the upper control arms exactly one inch.
Lowering the body resulted in greater changes in the wheel camber during cornering, keeping the wheels vertical to the ground.
It also lowered the front end's roll center and reduced the body's plowing.
To further stiffen the front end, a 1.00 inch anti-roll bar replaced the stock .84 inch stock GT bar. The live, rear axle was held in place with a 4-leaf, semi-elliptical leaf spring and beefy torque reaction arms sitting on top of the axle and anchored through the floor to the chassis.
These changes made the car handle more quickly and precisely.
The webpage here:
http://www.ftw.com.au/Automotive/Tech_Info/Shelby_Drop_Front_Suspension_Mod..html
Edit: Ok, so its easy for people to find in the thread, here is what I did.
First I made up the template in steel sheet using the following dimensions. Note, this is including Kerrys suggested additional 3mm (1/8in) drop at the rear. Please note that this image suits the left side of the car and should be flipped for the opposite side (note the front of car arrow).
I drilled the full size holes in the top so that I could put bolts through, and 3mm holes in the bottom.
After bolting the template to the original holes, I drilled the new holes with a few different sizes from 3mm up to the 13mm final size.
