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Mustang Technical Discussion > Pre 1973 > XF steering column?? > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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XF steering column?? Reply to topic

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Shaunp
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unilec5544 wrote
So for a 65 I need to cut & shut the XY drag link in the middle to get the length correct?


You need to get the overall lenght correct, the distance between the centre holes where the tie rods mount and the link in the same plain ie hieght off the ground. Also an XF box is not a mirror image to a LHD box, so you can't mount it in the same spot, it has to be back a little it also does not sweep the same arc at the end of the pitman arm. If you look at my pic you will see the box end of the link bends back to the box. The more cuts the more it costs the xrays are expensive. And if you don't weld them well they fail the xray every time. Once done the xray mob grind a flat on the centre then stamp with a number which matches a writen report that says it's ok.


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unilec5544
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Thanks you Kerry, I was just trying to establish where the cut is made. Definately a job for a decent welder.


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unilec5544
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Thanks Shaun, I'm sure once i have all the parts it will make a lot more sense, but will look at your pics as a reference.


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Shaunp
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But if you get it correct it will be better than any rack you can buy that's for sure. The guy that welded mine build speedway sprint cars for a quid, I reckon he could weld 2 bits of Gyprock. Basically you need to mock it up and tack it till you get it right. The welds are basically done radially around the bar. You grind the ends to a point, hold them about an 1/8 apart and work your way around the job. You need argo sheild heavy mig gas and the correct wire.


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Shaunp
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By the way, an XG ute/Pvan box is the best as they have a roller bearing in the top cover rather then a bronze bush. the bush is what wears and causes the shaft to flop around and leak at the bottom seal. You can retro fit the the top cover in any case on early boxes. and many reco shops do this on and exchange box. get hold of an XA on pedal box and xA/XB booster as well. Auto pedal boxes are all the same Xa to XF, but manual ones are different, late cars have a cbale clutch. XB booster is the perfect size to fit in the bay and with the macthing pedal box it all just works.


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ozbilt
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Shaunp wrote
But if you get it correct it will be better than any rack you can buy that's for sure. The guy that welded mine build speedway sprint cars for a quid, I reckon he could weld 2 bits of Gyprock. Basically you need to mock it up and tack it till you get it right. The welds are basically done radially around the bar. You grind the ends to a point, hold them about an 1/8 apart and work your way around the job. You need argo sheild heavy mig gas and the correct wire.


Hey, thinking out loud here... Might build a jig that would hold the cut drag link by all the tapered holes & ends so it could be welded while held. Could make one up for the early (65/6) & later cars (67-70) along with a template where to drill the steering box & idler.

Hmmm


Kerry

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Shaunp
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ozbilt wrote
Shaunp wrote
But if you get it correct it will be better than any rack you can buy that's for sure. The guy that welded mine build speedway sprint cars for a quid, I reckon he could weld 2 bits of Gyprock. Basically you need to mock it up and tack it till you get it right. The welds are basically done radially around the bar. You grind the ends to a point, hold them about an 1/8 apart and work your way around the job. You need argo sheild heavy mig gas and the correct wire.


Hey, thinking out loud here... Might build a jig that would hold the cut drag link by all the tapered holes & ends so it could be welded while held. Could make one up for the early (65/6) & later cars (67-70) along with a template where to drill the steering box & idler.

Hmmm

Yep that's how I did my car. I borrowed John Greens jigs, The rail jigs bolt to the LHD mounts inside and out you just drill thr new hole and add crush tubes and your done takes no time. John has a jig for all mustangs upto 72, rails and links. He wants to give it a way & retire. I was thinking of offering him some loot for all the stuff. Suit XF box and falcon links falcon pedal boxes . He has dash and fire wall jigs as well.


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ozbilt
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Shaunp wrote
ozbilt wrote
Shaunp wrote
But if you get it correct it will be better than any rack you can buy that's for sure. The guy that welded mine build speedway sprint cars for a quid, I reckon he could weld 2 bits of Gyprock. Basically you need to mock it up and tack it till you get it right. The welds are basically done radially around the bar. You grind the ends to a point, hold them about an 1/8 apart and work your way around the job. You need argo sheild heavy mig gas and the correct wire.


Hey, thinking out loud here... Might build a jig that would hold the cut drag link by all the tapered holes & ends so it could be welded while held. Could make one up for the early (65/6) & later cars (67-70) along with a template where to drill the steering box & idler.

Hmmm

Yep that's how I did my car. I borrowed John Greens jigs, The rail jigs bolt to the LHD mounts inside and out you just drill thr new hole and add crush tubes and your done takes no time. John has a jig for all mustangs upto 72, rails and links. He wants to give it a way & retire. I was thinking of offering him some loot for all the stuff. Suit XF box and falcon links falcon pedal boxes . He has dash and fire wall jigs as well.


That would work, no sense reinventing the wheel.


Kerry

It is easier to get older than it it is to get wiser

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scedd
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I overheard in a conversation once that early Toyota Crown drag links will work.
Does anyone know if this is fact or BS?


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Shaunp
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Particulary when you know it's correct, 25 years of passion & refinment, built in, not just slap it together stuff. John is a QLD Dot approved engineer as well, it's all good. think he has stub axle jigs as well to make falcon stubs work on pre 67 cars.The Xray bloke is just up the road from me as well.


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Shaunp
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scedd wrote
I overheard in a conversation once that early Toyota Crown drag links will work.
Does anyone know if this is fact or BS?


The degree of working is the question. Nothing would work correctly without mods. I mean a falcon works out of the box if you don't mind more turns of lock one way and bump steer. Falcons and Mustangs aren't that different but they are different enough. One of the reasons people are scared of RHD swaps is that most were never done correctly. It is possible to make them drive better than new, these days.


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scott66stang
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Thought i might just add this for reference

XY Falcon inner and outer colapsable tubes, no centre steering shaft in pic.


Draglink (XR-XY are all the same)




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unilec5544
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Hey Scott, thanks for the reference pics always good to see. i wonder if anyone has just heated the mustang drag link and bent it in the opposite direction?

Cheers Neil.


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scott66stang
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unilec5544 wrote
Hey Scott, thanks for the reference pics always good to see. i wonder if anyone has just heated the mustang drag link and bent it in the opposite direction?

Cheers Neil.
Its something that i have wondered myself, the only problem i can see is the tierod tapered holes would be on the wrong side, that could be overcome by drilling out and fitting a tapered sleeve. There has got to be a reason why this hasnt previously been done?
Castlemain rod shop make the tapered sleeves for tierod to stub axle fitment for some of their XP to XY stubs and discs.
It will still need to be flux tested for cracks and stamped.


Converting Rust to Something Drivable

66 Fastback Fairstang Project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
67 convertibuild project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
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unilec5544
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it's just something I was considering, but I think the taper would till be on the same side, you are just fliping it over and reversing the drag link angle. i will have to get an xy one and play with it.


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