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Q&A > General Tech Advice > Nuts Goes SImple EFI > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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nassi
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Nuts wrote
Dwayne wrote
Wouldn't want it to spring a leak either if it's sitting above the exhaust.

If it leaks and burns my car i'll just build another better one.


Don't you just love insurance? Razz


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66STNG
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Nuts wrote
Dwayne wrote
Wouldn't want it to spring a leak either if it's sitting above the exhaust.

If it leaks and burns my car i'll just build another better one.

.
I like your thought process nuts. I'm thinking of setting mine alight so I can re do it...


66 basket case

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Nuts
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No one would ever know!!.. Snigger Kerry would be pissed though!


My Motto - Don't get Caught! If you do, Blame Someone Else!

MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

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Nuts
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Removed the carby and installed the Fitech throttle body. No issues here. Easier than a carby change.






Couldn't fit the Fuel Command Centre where I wanted to under the hood hinges because the heater motor gets in the way. So,I decided to put it on the left front apron. Fits easy.






One problem I have run into is the need for a vent line from the FCC to the fuel tank. This was not immediately apparent in my early research and was one of the reasons for going this way. Anyway, a question for you EFI Guru's. I need to vent the FCC, Can I vent it to a Charcoal Canister then run a vacuum line to a ported connection? What are your thoughts


My Motto - Don't get Caught! If you do, Blame Someone Else!

MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

Last edited by Nuts on Sun Aug 13, 2017 7:26 am; edited 1 time in total

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boofhead
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run a line back to your tank filler neck - you have vapor and fluid covered.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

Last edited by boofhead on Sat Aug 12, 2017 7:17 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Dwayne
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If you need a return line from the FCC to the tank... why not just have the pumps and a swirl pot back at the tank instead of a FCC?


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boofhead
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Agreed - but the FCC really is a swirl tank with the high pressure pump inside it.

nuts - i like how neat you engine bay is


I will someday think of something clever to say.

Last edited by boofhead on Sun Aug 13, 2017 9:21 am; edited 1 time in total

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cage
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Just found this thread sorry Nuts, good work mate, watching with interest.


"The simple answer is, even if I have decided I still don't know what to do."

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Husky65
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Dwayne wrote
If you need a return line from the FCC to the tank... why not just have the pumps and a swirl pot back at the tank instead of a FCC?


Because they designed the FCC for the people that wanted to use their stock mechanical pump and not change anything. If it was at the back, you would then need a line from the mechanical pump, back to the trunk, then the feed line back to the motor.

The FCC is a bit different to a standard swirl tank in the sense that is has it's own float, so stops filling itself up at a certain level. It doesn't have a return and overflow port like a normal swirl pot does. The vent is purely for fumes. You could either put a line back to the tank filler neck as already suggested or run a charcoal canister, but you still need a fresh air vent for the charcoal canister, as the tank has to draw air in also. A line to the filler is probably the easiest way.


Last edited by Husky65 on Sun Aug 13, 2017 12:23 pm; edited 1 time in total

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boofhead
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Yep one big carbi fuel bowl with a high pressure pump inside.


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Dwayne
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Husky65 wrote
Dwayne wrote
If you need a return line from the FCC to the tank... why not just have the pumps and a swirl pot back at the tank instead of a FCC?


Because they designed the FCC for the people that wanted to use their stock mechanical pump and not change anything. If it was at the back, you would then need a line from the mechanical pump, back to the trunk, then the feed line back to the motor.

The FCC is a bit different to a standard swirl tank in the sense that is has it's own float, so stops filling itself up at a certain level. It doesn't have a return and overflow port like a normal swirl pot does. The vent is purely for fumes. You could either put a line back to the tank filler neck as already suggested or run a charcoal canister, but you still need a fresh air vent for the charcoal canister, as the tank has to draw air in also. A line to the filler is probably the easiest way.



That makes sense now, thanks.


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Nuts
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Only just been able to get back to Blue today. Installed all the wiring and fuel lines. Still have to do the vent line back to the tank. stuck a lengthy bit of hose on there just for testing. followed the instructions and didn't connect power to the fuel command centre until I had cracked up enough fuel to fill the sump. Time to give the ECU the basic setup parameters. So I turn on the ignition and select initial startup and answer the basic questions such as what size engine. what stage cam 1-4, what idle rpm etc. Then saved the settings.. All ready to test the fuel system for pressure and leaks. Connected the orange wire to the command centre and turned on the ignition. The pump came to life and I could hear the injectors click to let some air out and some fuel in. No leaks and a steady 58 lb pressure, all good. Cycled the ignition a few more times to make sure all air is purged from the injectors. Time to hit the starter. Starter cranks but nothing, buggah! Go and have a cuppa. Had two while reading all the setup info again. Nothing comes to mind.

Checked all the connections again and found nothing wrong.. Hit the started again with the same result. Double Buggah!!

Ok, back to basics.
Fuel? - yep.
Power to the ECU? - yep.
Spark at the Plugs? - NO!! WTF
Spark at the coil? Yes but seems not as strong as it should be!! More WTF
Another cuppa.

Maybe the initial setup settings for the ECU are causing the problem.. Straw clutching here..

Setup instructions double checked and are ok. Buggah

Ok how far can the spark jump. I tried to get my mate Pete to hold onto the coil lead while I cranked and measured how far he jumped. I figured a foot of Pete would be the equivalent of around ¼” at the plug. Unfortunately he declined to assist. I ended up using a spark plug and opened the gap up about 10 mm. The spark would not jump the gap.. More Buggahs.

I unplugged all wiring for the ECU and cracked the engine again. No change!!

Either the dissy, the dissy controller or the coil was toast.

Plugged in a new bosch controller with no change. Buggah again.

The coil is a new one and I painted it beautiful blue, this couldn’t be the culprit.

Swapped out the dissy with an new one, again no change.

Found a coil on the shelf that would do for testing and did a temporary install. Heaps of spark!!

Getting somewhere at last.

So what cooked the coil?????

Slept on it and reread the installation instructions again. The ECU needs an ignition-on connection with +12v when cranking and ignition on. I only have one such circuit and that goes to the + side of the coil. Although the doco says nothing about isolating this ECU wire from the coil, there is nothing else that could have fried the coil so I decided to isolate this by using a relay.

I have ordered another coil and another bosch dissy controller. Hopefully I’ll have them in the morning. And when I fit them, all will be noisy!!!

Watch this space More tomorrow!!! Including video of the successful startup or the news article of a car fire in downtown Nth Cooma or Sth Canberra


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MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

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nassi
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I bet your glad you didn't go for a complex EFI setup....


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Nuts
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Could be heading that way tomorrow Nassi!! Keep an eye out for EFI Setup on Evilbay!!


My Motto - Don't get Caught! If you do, Blame Someone Else!

MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

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hybrid
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How does the ignition work with that setup Nuts?
Do you use your existing distributor?
How does the signal get to the ECU?

If it's the original distributor, have you locked out the vacuum and mechanical advance?


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