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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Edz 66 Convertible > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Edz66Vert
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Had to go to Fyshwick for bolts so I dropped in to the brake supplier. Here's a pic of the AU3 pads V BA/F. The BF are quite a bit bigger in the radius - probably 10-15% bigger pad area.


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

Last edited by Edz66Vert on Sat Apr 08, 2017 11:46 am; edited 1 time in total

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Edz66Vert
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Voltage regulator delete?
I have a 3 wire voltage regulator and a single wire alternator, can I delete the voltage regulator, if so how? I'm trying to remove excess wires and adding new fuse boxes so I'd like to get rid of it as it seems superfluous with a 1 wire alternator from my understanding?


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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nassi
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You certainly can, but it has been so long since I did it I will have to sober up to remember. Hopefully someone sorts it before I have to sober up.

I will look tomorrow evening, just can't remember atm.


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hybrid
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You should be able to just remove it.
Run the charge wire from your alternator to the Batt side of your solenoid (if you still have it), or just run it straight to the battery.
The only other thing would be an alternator light if you have one. The new alternator may or may not have provision for one.


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nassi
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There will not be a charge light as standard as it is a 66. I don't know if the ammeter will work as I disconnected mine from day 1.


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boofhead
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cut the wires and terminate. No use for them.
Then wire the 1 wire alt to the battery directly.
There will not be a alt warning light so install a volt gauge.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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Edz66Vert
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My Brake guy turned up Saturday and we did the two front lines and the master cylinder lines in 3.5 hours - to a while because he's fussy but final job is very neat. He's coming back after Easter to do the 2 lines to the new under-guard booster and rear line. We're running the rear line in the channel in the sill as I don't want it down the tunnel to leave room for the exhaust, upside down convertible brace I have to make and tailshaft loop.



Had a good day today, mounted the battery sideways and built a panel behind it to hide 7 relays and a fuse panel or 150 amp bus bar. You can see all the wiring and relays, I've decided to tidy the engine bay and runit all under the guards in a tube. Hopefully the battery clears the alternator, won't know until Monday when i trial fit the motor and box for them headers, if it doesn't fit I'll have to throw it in the boot but I don't really want to lose the boot space as it was a bit tight for the last long trip I did. Decided to mount the starter solenoid under the battery tray, hopefully it won't get too wet from rain through the radiator. I can always build a shield but the plan is to upgrade to a starter with a solenoid down the track as that and the alternator are the only bits I haven't replaced and the starter is looking at least 10 years old and tired.


Fitted a 3/8" fuel line, shopping on Summit for a fuel pump. Anyone have any recommendations, I was thinking of going with a decent efi pump (200-300L/H) with a prefilter and run a return line just before a fuel pressure regulator to drop pressure to 6-8 psi for the carby.


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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Edz66Vert
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Thanks for the tips on the regulator, I'll chop it out and wire a volt gauge. My ammeter has been chopped out but I'm looking to replace the whole gauge set with a 6 guage autometer set.

Sorry, alternator is 2 wire, see pic. Connections to F (field energiser?) and BA (Battery?). I was only getting 12 volts to the battery yet Alternator was putting out 14 volts so I'm replacing the old thin battery cable, where does the F connector go?



66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

Last edited by Edz66Vert on Mon Apr 10, 2017 10:02 am; edited 1 time in total

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hybrid
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Check out our starter upgrade article:
www.mustangtech.com.au...id=19.html

Go for the Bosch bronco starter if you switch starters. Mine has been great.
The 6cylinder starter originally documented in that article won't fit yours. The positive terminal on the solenoid hits the steering linkage, but the Bronco one is spot on.


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Edz66Vert
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That was the article I read, when it says 'An alternative alternator is available that DOES fit - Bosch part number BXA005N' I assume that's meant to say starter motor?

So the BXA005N one works with LHD?


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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hybrid
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Oops, yes I will fix that now.

Yes mine is LHD. The starter is on the opposite side.


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Edz66Vert
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My alternator had the B wire connected and F, from this picture (bottom one) it seems it is still an old school externally regulated one which means I shouldn't just cut the old regulator out? I might take it past an autoelectrician while it's out.


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

Last edited by Edz66Vert on Mon Apr 10, 2017 1:35 pm; edited 1 time in total

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hybrid
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Why does that mean you shouldn't take the regulator out?
The B+ wire is the only wire that matters on your new single wire unit.

The F wire is probably the field exciter wire which your old alternator requires to start charging. And is the way that your regulator will regulate the output.
The new one doesn't need it.


Last edited by hybrid on Mon Apr 10, 2017 1:43 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Edz66Vert
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I bought a new alternator as the Auto Electrician said even though my old one is a pretty chrome one it's only a 45 amp one which is way to small to run my Spal fan and new fuel pump when I decide which one. Also means I can get rid of the regulator when I rework the wiring. I'll also order the Bronco starter as that will get rid of the solenoid to further cleanup the guard.

Did the $$$$$ last night, my rebuild just hit $20k and I still have to do wheels, drive shaft, tidy paint and pay an engineer $2k unless I can find a cheaper one.


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

Last edited by Edz66Vert on Tue Apr 11, 2017 9:11 am; edited 2 times in total

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hybrid
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Here's a link to the Bronco starter from Supercheap for $150

www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bo...okgF7BFBtA


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