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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Finally - the Bullitt begins! :-) > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Finally - the Bullitt begins! :-) Reply to topic

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mungus
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boofhead wrote
Hats off to you for solid knowledge and reasoning.


Thanks Boof, but in truth all I can do is have a stab based on how the product feels and perhaps the reputation of the manufacturer. One nice thing about aviation is everything has a paper trail and known specs. So when a product says it has an ISA density of X and allows a certain range of "wiggle" at a certain force and Hz, then you can pretty much know whats what.

Buying aftermarket polymers is bit of a pig in a poke by comparison... Smile
In my view the issues arise when a "revolutionary" product hits the market and every Tom, Dick and Harry goes mad selling it for every imaginable purpose. Hard urethane bushes were a bit like that in the 80's. Still I think most good aftermarket manufacturers have moved on and usually sell something fairly appropriate for the task.
Sadly many of us think we are Dale Earnhart when webshoping and buy race spec stuff that's not going to enhance our driving experience. I've done that myself but hope I've matured a little since then. Smile Having played with racing years back I will always appreciate a tight handling car with some oomph, but have to remember what I'm going to be doing with it!


Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Tue May 02, 2017 7:44 pm; edited 2 times in total

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nassi
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mungus wrote
I've done that myself but hope I've matured a little since then. Smile Having played with racing years back I will always appreciate a tight handling car with some oomph, but have to remember what I'm going to be doing with it!


Damn, and I thought you were going to drive it like Steve. I had hoped that a sequel was about to happen. Bow Down


Last edited by nassi on Sun May 07, 2017 10:25 am; edited 1 time in total

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mungus
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Well might be fun, what with the jumps and dodging shotgun totting bogans n all, but I fear that in the People's Democratic Socialist Republic of Victoria I would probably be locked up and declared an enemy of the state as soon as I cracked the ton! Theres just no fun in the world anymore... Smile

Anyway been back into the sheet metal today. Firstly the rear valance. The Taiwanese knock off I got with the car was about 3/4" too long in the drop at both ends, so blended that off. Then some cuts, twists and joins at the top corners and a bit of filing and we were nearly there. The last bit was there was far too much gap between the ends and the lower rear quarters, so off came the stock brackets and on went my own, being wider, with stronger steel and better/more welds that "grab" the ends more solidly and allow one to pull them in more effectively with the 1/4 UNC studs. Still a little tweaking to go there to get them perfect. But certainly in the acceptable range now. I really was amazed to see how rough and gappy many Mustang rear valances are when searching the web. I swear some folks must just throw them on and hit em with the paint gun... Maybe the factory did too?

The last thing is blanking off the reversing light holes. But not only am I a bit worried about doing that without issues, as the panel flexs when mounted and of course there is are fair bit of heat and a thin wee panel. However I bought some flash-as welders heat defeating putty and will take my time, with lost of air duster cooling inbetween zaps, so I guess anything is possible.

But I'm still torn between being movie authentic and being practical, lighting wise. The Vic-roads regs and ADR's are fine as its pre Jan 1 1969, so ADR 1 doesn't even apply, but even if it did, the only standards stated are max height, lens colour and min/max lumens. I figure I can mount a couple of LED lights under the valance, using a right angle bracket off the drop panel. There are plenty of good weather resistant little LED units around and much more effective than OEM. Should do the trick.




Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Tue May 02, 2017 9:02 pm; edited 4 times in total

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mungus
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Then came the dreaded trunk lid gaps.

My car came with a NOS OEM Ford trunk lid and the PO paid a panel beater of some description (NY remember) to replace the rear quarters with OEM Ford in the 90's. However try as I might I couldn't get close to the desired 3/16" (4.76mm) on both sides. The problem was the RHS rear quarter which had about 7.5mm gap at the end, with an increasing drop (down to the lid), where it meets the pot metal extension. Looked crap to me. The first photo shows it below.



So I began by slicing off some sections of 3, 2.5, 1.5 and 1mm panel steel and slowly MIG'd them all on in decreasing sizes with plenty of air duster cooling inbetween. Lots of filing and sanding to get a nice flat finish from the end into the corner, a little putty-priming etc and voila! The pot metal extension on that side needed some work too, but after maybe 10 hours of stuffing about and playing with hinges and latches etc, shes all within cooee. Everything lines up and the gaps look OK - well I think so anyway.

I'm sure if I spent another day I could get it down to exactly 4.76mm all the way, but whats .3mm variation within mates. Its practically invisible and I'm happy with it like it is now. My web searches have revealed some large (IMHO) panel gaps on 68' FB/GT trunks. I even found a newly restored $60K+ USD car recently sold by a well known Mustang dealer, who's LHS trunk lid gap was just like mine was - only its just been painted! What the? I'd be bonkers if I saw that on my newly purchased dream car, especially with a brand new red paint job on it. Still somebody paid big $ for it. I guess nice GT/FB 68's are getting up there...

Anyway I'm no panel beater but this should work out OK when the Highland Green is on.








So I guess its on to the next thing: Patching a few rust pin holes the sandblasting revealed in the RHS A pillar.


Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Thu May 04, 2017 7:51 am; edited 9 times in total

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Dwayne
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Shaunp wrote
Cut 1/8" off the spacer tube in the caster bar bushes. Help stop caster changes under braking and throttle, better locates the lower arm.


Do you cut the 1/8' off all 4 of the spacers tubes?


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boofhead
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I did on my mustang - 2 tubes.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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Pinto-Pete
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nassi wrote
mungus wrote
I've done that myself but hope I've matured a little since then. Smile Having played with racing years back I will always appreciate a tight handling car with some oomph, but have to remember what I'm going to be doing with it!


Damn, and I thought you were going to drive it like Clint. I had hoped that a sequel was about to happen. Bow Down


Just who is this Clint of whom you speak and what is the sequel you desire...?


I'm Batman...

Toyo Spares.
97203177.
5/89-91 Canterbury rd Kilsyth vic.
Specialist Toyota Dismantlers.

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scedd
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Pinto-Pete wrote
Just who is this Clint of whom you speak and what is the sequel you desire...?


I dont know him , but it was his birthday the other day



The word "swims" upside-down is still "swims".
- If you rip a hole in a net, there are actually fewer holes in it than there were before

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ozbilt
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scedd wrote
Pinto-Pete wrote
Just who is this Clint of whom you speak and what is the sequel you desire...?


I dont know him , but it was his birthday the other day



Snigger


Kerry

It is easier to get older than it it is to get wiser

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boofhead
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You can always paint it black, fill the boot with rabbits stop someone where out back take a shot gun out let the rabbit run and take pot shots........... wrong movie car I know but.....


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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mungus
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True enough. Yup me thinks Clint (CU in the NT) should have been Steve M!

Anyway pin hole rust patch in the RHS A pillar all fixed now, so I just had to fit the door to make it resemble a car again.
So I fitted the Dynacorn door on the RHS, and the NOS Ford RHS fender, which was just perfect! (made in 1994 and still in its wrapper - at least I know when in the 90's the PO started his resto project). That Dynacorn door will sure need a lot of work to get it nice. The OEM 68' door that the shippers stoved in fitted beautifully. But this Dynacorn one... UUGGH



I spent a few hours doing the best I could to align it, and while its C stripe bodylines are fine and the lower edge lines up nicely with the rocker panel (albeit slightly too much gap), it will need around 1/8" (welding rod is what I like to use) added over the whole front edge (I'm not touching the NOS fender), and a shed load on the top half of the back edge to get a nice result. (I've seen gaps on other web threads in exactly the same places with other Dynacorn 68'doors, so I don't think its just me). I'll put a length of 1/8 welding rod right along the bottom edge too, which will bring that gap back to 1/8-3/16". Its about 7mm now.



However the real rub is that the top edge doesn't line up with the rear quarter at all well (1/4" too high). As the C stripe bodylines and the rocker line are the baselines, and as the OEM 68'door fitted there perfectly, I can only assume the Dynacorn door is basically a poorly engineered P.O.S. No idea who made it (Golden Legion?) as it just came in a standard Dynacorn box with no makers marks, but their dies or whatever must be worn to buggery. Still its just another project to deal with I guess!

I did try to source a good 2nd hand door before I bought it, but the few I found were rusted out rubbish and very exxy. So I created my own mess with this one really!



Anyone who has a magic fix for the top rear gap, please let me know... Otherwise I figure all I can do is get everything else dead on, then build up the rear quarter's ridge line.


Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Sun May 07, 2017 3:06 pm; edited 6 times in total

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mungus
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boofhead wrote
You can always paint it black, fill the boot with rabbits stop someone where out back take a shot gun out let the rabbit run and take pot shots........... wrong movie car I know but.....


Funnily enough the local Mustang shop "Just Mustangs" (Russel Trainor) has got a 68' Charger 440 RT project for sale right now. So if I won the lotto and got the Mrs a gun license, we're in business! I'd still need to find a bunch of hubcaps to chuck out the window at various places...


Grumpy old git!

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scedd
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mungus wrote
I did try to source a good 2nd hand door before I bought it, but the few I found were rusted out rubbish and very exxy. So I created my own mess with this one really!


Silly question time

With your welding ability, wouldnt it be better value to repair the rust and reskin a genuine door?


The word "swims" upside-down is still "swims".
- If you rip a hole in a net, there are actually fewer holes in it than there were before

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mungus
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True enough but finding a salvageable one is a real issue in itself.

Re-skinning isn't the biggest hurdle, the tricky part is that often the inside sections with the embossed grain is often rusted away and I've no way of recreating that. If I was stateside and had a big mustang wrecker like Colorado mustang parts just down the road then that's what I'd be doing for sure. As they have dozens of 67/68 doors to choose from.

I have no problem with adding metal around the edges to get a nice gap, but the top rear corner is more of an issue... YUK!



The easy way is to build up the adjacent rear quarter section to match, changing its body line there by 1/4". The more correct way IMHO would be a hughmungus pain in the arse, that is make a thin cut along the 2nd from top beltline on the repop door, then cut a decreasing thin wedge out from back end forward to correct the mismatch, stitching it back together very carefully and dress it. Problem is the frame behind it would need changing to match. Big time pain in the arse. We'll see how it pans out once I've done all the metal additions around the edges.


Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Sun May 07, 2017 11:21 am; edited 2 times in total

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Pinto-Pete
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mungus wrote
a big mustang wrecker like Colorado mustang parts

I


Brother inlaw took me there a couple of times, like a kid in a candy store me...


I'm Batman...

Toyo Spares.
97203177.
5/89-91 Canterbury rd Kilsyth vic.
Specialist Toyota Dismantlers.

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