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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Finally - the Bullitt begins! :-) > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Finally - the Bullitt begins! :-) Reply to topic

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Shaunp
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Yep thats what Id do particulary on the doors. You can try some satin clear but find its too shiny mostly get a litre of each and see how you go. The other option is just buy some flattening base and mix your own clear to your liking.


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mungus
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Well did the column and glove box and even the matte 2K is glossier than the base PPG, which in itself was slightly shiny.
But the matte is not excessively shiny and I think that's what I'll continue on with. The satin 30% was certainly too glossy and using the flattening base seemed to have a milkiness issue. So that's what I found anyway.

The idea of hardened PPG base is attractive though, as its thinner than using C.O.B. method and it seems (in my case anyway) to be easier to get a blemish free finish. The 2K matte clear seems to pick up any impurities that's around etc... I get the impression that anything less than a full spray booth is going to result in less than stellar results with that stuff. Although its been manageable with small pieces. I'll do some more photos as soon as I get a decent day. Been a bit gloomy down here in VIC lately.


Grumpy old git!

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Shaunp
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Did you stir the Mat clear as well . cause if not the flattening is just sitting in the bottom. Use as like reducer as posible


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mungus
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Yup, stirred the bejeazas out of it, remembered the post on that.
Its a nice low sheen with the matte. I'm happy enough with it, it just seems to pick up every speck of dust etc. Sad

Meantime while I'm waiting for a sunny day to take photos I'm back into panel fitting and tweaking. Trying to get the trunk lid gaps sorted. Mostly came out OK with some hinge hole fettling, (5 to 6mm around both sides and rear corners) just the gaps by the rear quarter extensions will take some work it seems. If only they weren't made of that rubbish thin pot metal.

So that's my weekend done I guess.


Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Sat Apr 29, 2017 7:08 am; edited 1 time in total

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Shaunp
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Stand the glove box lid etc vertical while you paint them don't lay them down . It will help with dust and use fast reducer


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mungus
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Good tip, just have to make sure I do light coats when vertical I guess!.

Well not really sunny so lousy photos but you can at least see the difference between the SGB and DCM paint.
The matte clear does darken the DCM up a shade but its still pretty good and looking far more factory than garden variety satin gloss black.



Also refinished the strut rods with stainless steel finish paint and completed them with the SD HD bushings kit and AMK hardware. It had been pointed out to me that the VHT cast iron paint is good for just that; Cast Iron. Its a couple of shades too dark for supposed fresh bare steel, for which the stainless paint is supposed to be a reasonable match. I painted some new exhaust hanger hooks with it today and I reckon it was a dead match. So a worthy coating to stop the rust without changing the OEM look. It's a Dulux "Dura Max" rattle can product, fast drying too. Its available at Bunnings etc.



Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Sun Apr 30, 2017 11:26 am; edited 3 times in total

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Shaunp
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Cut 1/8" off the spacer tube in the caster bar bushes. Help stop caster changes under braking and throttle, better locates the lower arm.


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mungus
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Ahh OK, good to know. I may trim that off tomorrow while its fresh in my mind.

Here's some more of that stainless steel paint on the rebuilt pedal assembly, to which I had added the needle roller bearing kit and the MDL clutch pedal.

Theres too much flash here, but it does look like fresh steel when seen in the flesh.





Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Sat Apr 29, 2017 9:16 pm; edited 1 time in total

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boofhead
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Nice work. To think grubby shoes all over it...


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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mungus
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I'm hoping so, one day...


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boofhead
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If those bushes on the strut rods are not rubber then do not cut the 1/8th as they are already to hard and you need some give. I only use rubber and cut the 8th.

Note: Details in tech section by Ozbuilt.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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mungus
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Thanks Boof I'll have a look at the article by Ozbilt. I PDF'd it a year or so ago. It's sitting in my tech folder's steering section somewhere.

Luckily I hadn't cut the spacers. Spent today adding fettling the rear quarters and the trunk lid instead.

My bushes are the new SD's Heavy Duty kit, and aren't rubber. A softish shiny elastomer of some sort.


Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Tue May 02, 2017 9:38 am; edited 2 times in total

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boofhead
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The issue with Poly bushes are little to no give which means the bar bends and flexes leading often to them snapping (which is bad) so I always use rubber.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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mungus
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Thanks Boof. The warning is valid and certainly appreciated.

However as many here probably know there's more than one type of "poly" bush material out there.

Nolathane and the like, are from the earlier families of high density polymers, which have high torsional rigidity and are thus great for rotational loading or short travel harmonics (vs. natural soft natural rubber, which as we know, is pliable but short lived and vulnerable to heat and solvents). So in aviation they get used in things like dynafocal engine mounts & in cars for leaf spring eyes etc.

Then there are various grades of elastomeric bushings being marketed these days to fill the space between the 2. They generally have a low Young's modulus and high failure strain compared with high density polymers like nolathane (ie soft & flex but still tough). We've been using them in aviation for jobs that require limited flex, long before they hit the car scene.

The SD "HD" ones are softish elastomer bush of some kind, (without a spectrograph I wouldn't even guess what type, there are literally dozens of formulas out there), with a glossy / slippery surface. They certainly have some give in them, so I'll run them with some moly or silicon to stop binding, and see how they go.


Grumpy old git!

Last edited by mungus on Tue May 02, 2017 2:42 pm; edited 3 times in total

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boofhead
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Hats off to you for solid knowledge and reasoning.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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