- -
UserInfo

Welcome Anonymous




Membership:
Latest: Micks66
New Today: 0
New Yesterday: 0
Overall: 896

People Online:
Members: 0
Visitors: 1
Bots: 10
Total: 11
Who Is Where:
Visitors:
01. Forums
 Bots:
01. Forums
02. Forums
03. Forums
04. CPGNuCalendar
05. Forums
06. Login
07. Forums
08. Forums
09. Downloads
10. Home

Staff Online:

No staff members are online!
We have received
34236638
page views since
July 27, 2010

Hits New Today: 2716
Hits New Yesterday: 19019

Server Time
19 January 2018 04:37:00 AEDT (GMT +11)
Other > Other Projects > Jacko's Project > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

View posts since last visit โ€ข View posts last 24 hours โ€ข View unanswered posts
Forum Index > Other Projects

Jacko's Project Reply to topic

Go to page Previous 1, 2, 3 โ€ฆ 55, 56 57 58, 59, 60, 61 Next
Author Message
ACTstanglover
Mustang Star

Offline
Joined: Oct 02, 2011
Posts: 461
Location: Canberra

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


I am going tonight in Canberra. Canโ€™t wait


View user's profile
Ausjacko
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Aug 03, 2010
Posts: 2125
Location: Canberra

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


29 October 2017
We have electrons!
Connected the battery up and there was no smoke- good start. Fiddled with the interior light door switch and we had two of the three lights working; the festoon in the fuse block and the drivers side rear. Unscrewed the passenger side rear, checked it had voltage and then put the led festoon across a battery and it worked. Fitted it back in the holder and we had light.

Checked the front lights and nothing. Plugged the front light connectors into the connectors and they now work, together with the parkers. The HID loom JBB gave me is not working; relays do not click.

Rear passenger side parker worked and with a bit of fiddling got the drivers side to accompany it.

Rear indicators were a bit of a mystery as the passenger side brake light would flicker when that side indicator was on. Checked continuity of wires, unscrewed the globe and it was a twin footer as opposed to single like it should be. Single fitted and it now works and the brake flicker is gone.

Brake lights work.

Dash lights look great and they all work.

Wipers are still a work in progress. They started up fine when I pushed the โ€˜washโ€™ and worked for a while. Unfortunately, it is now on strike and I suspect the switch as there is no voltage getting to the connector at the motor- bummer.

The handbrake indicator did not work and I will have to chase this and the wiper switch more tomorrow night. Did I mention no smoke?

Mid-week and we have progress. The non working handbrake and gen lights are due to using LED globes that require a positive base and negative body connection. These two globe holders have the positive to the body and earth to the base. I found one of my LEDs in this configuration and have resorted to incandescent globes for the time being; they now work. I swapped the passenger side footwell globe for the same reason.

I dismantled the wiper switch and did not see anything odd.






The switch does not carry any voltage as such, merely bridging two of more of the four wires at the motor to give slow, fast and squirt functionality. Voltage makes it way via a yellow wire straight from the fuse block. Mapping the connections and testing the motor got me nowhere.

If I connected voltage, via a small 12 alarm battery, to the motor I could get it to spin. Put the connector back on and nothing. Must be the motor I think.

Nothing else for it, remove wiper motor. Now to do this you have to loosen the handbrake at the firewall from inside the engine bay. Remove the two handbrake bolt securing it to the bottom of the dash. This then allows the wiper motor arm cover on the cabin side of the dash to be removed; some bright spark constructed it so that the top right corner of the cover is sandwiched between the handbrake and firewall- saved a screw I guess.

Removed the various covers and pushed the centre axle and big gear out to reveal the contacts underneath. These had a bit of grease but nothing odd. Back to the car and I connected the connector to the motor, earth it and connected the battery; still nothing. Got under the dash and wriggled the now reinstalled switch. The bloody thing spins to life. Wriggled the switch again and we had life. Yep, it is the switch connection!

Due to earthing issues, I changed all the exterior globes back to incandescent. Reinstalled the wiper motor and it was the switch. I donโ€™t think the internal earth was earthing on the metal housing correctly. The v-shaped brass contact below is I suspect how it earths:




Glove box globe now works as do the indicator in the dash- same LED reverse polarity issue.

Rechecked the HID loom. One relay worked but the other side, high beam, does not work. The HID black block thingy must do something in it to connect the purple input to the needed output to trigger the relay. As I could not figure this out, I bridged the two circuits and it seems to work fine. Ditched the black box thingy and am just using it as a headlight relay to save the switch- the dreaded Mustang affliction. Reinstalled this loom and everything works fine.

As I have now chased all the electrical issues, it was motor time. Removed all the plugs (well all but one that I just loosened). Turned the motor over to ensure I had oil pressure on the dash gauge. Reinstalled plugs, connected the fuel and let her go. Got fuel into the bowls and she spluttered on firing. Another crank and she came to life only to be snuffed out by a fuel fountain out the bowl breather tube- see for yourself.

youtu.be/wD3OYDUD-aQ


Try as I might I could not figure out what the issue is. I changed needle and seat, reset the float level (twice) and checked this was working with no pressure by connecting a length of fuel hose up to the inlet and let it trickle in until the float came up and closed the needle to the seat.

When I connected the fuel pump up I could start it and she would run, rather smoothly in fact, but backing off we had the fuel โ€˜fountainโ€™, causing me to switch it off. In short, the fuel bowl vent allows fuel to escape out of the bowl if too much fuel flows in. The only way this can happen is if the float does not push the needle up or pressure overcomes the float; I think the latter. I overcame the issue by connecting a length of fuel line to the tube and directing this down into the fuel container. Obviously, need to sort out what is going on.

At the end of the day, I ran the motor till she sucked the fuel container dry and drained the bowls. This got the temp up a bit and allowed for a few snappy blats of the secondaries; sounded pretty cool as it was dumping out the before the muffler.

A few inspections of the warm block revealed all was fine except for the temp sender leaking at the front of the manifold. An easy enough fix tomorrow when it is cold and I will drain the water below the temp sender level.

As for a โ€˜fountainโ€™ fix, I think I will swap the needle and seats front to rear and see if fuel squirts out the rear instead.

Tomorrow:
Right, removed and cleaned the 450 carby of black crap and removed both fuel bowls, cleaning as I went. Reinstalled everything but the gaskets looked dodgy. Fear not, as I had the 750cfm unit on standby.

Reinstalled said 450 and she leaks like a sieve. Looks nice and clean but needs new gaskets. Enter the 750โ€ฆWhy didnโ€™t I just reco the 450? Well I have a planโ€ฆ

Seeking some joy, I removed and permatexed the temp sender and sleeve back in the manifold.

Back to the carby issue. Like the 450, I cleaned the 750, reset both floats and blocked off the brake booster port as I am using the one in the manifold. Installed now nice and clean looking carby on the motor, connected everything back up, topped up the water, rigged up my dodgy fuel cell (read lawnmower fuel container) and gave it a start.

Wow, she nearly started straight away butโ€ฆ yep a fuel leak but this one was my own fault as I forgot to tighten up the inlet fuel bango on the carby. With that fixed, she started no problem. Oil pressure was great and the temp rose until the thermostat opened. While it was reaching temp, I played around with the idle speed and mixture. I must have an air leak as I closed off both idle jet and she still ran; obviously not on the idle circuit. Motor runs very smooth and sounds awesome!

Hope you like the vid.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

View user's profilePhoto Gallery
Nuts
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Jul 31, 2010
Posts: 4211
Location: Can someone send me some of that "Clean" coal for my furnace. My wood has frozen..

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


Sounds Real Healthy Jacko.. Well done!


My Motto - Don't get Caught! If you do, Blame Someone Else!

MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

View user's profileSend e-mail
Pinto-Pete
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Mar 04, 2011
Posts: 2965
Location: Kilsyth

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


Vid is great jacko, dried bowl gaskets are standard with holleys...


I'm Batman...

Toyo Spares.
97203177.
5/89-91 Canterbury rd Kilsyth vic.
Specialist Toyota Dismantlers.

View user's profile
Ausjacko
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Aug 03, 2010
Posts: 2125
Location: Canberra

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


6 November 2017
This week seems to be carby focused; I was not going to let the little 450 beat me. Pulled the thing apart properly this time, including the secondaries metering plate- yes a plate. Here it is:




Cleaned out the needle and seats and swapped them to see if that made a difference. When I popped off the secondary bowl I was greeted the a strong smell of varnish- read something that was petrol- and a very tired and brown looking gasket. Took me an hour just to get the old gasket off from behind the metering plate.

With that off, I emptied the varnish from the recess and started making sure the holes were holes and that the galleries were clean of crap. Took me a while but I got there.

I was lucky to have gaskets left over from previous rebuild kits and only had to buy two new bowl gaskets- or that is how it started. The new/old metering plate gasket looked a little different as it should be a rectangle but was missing the lower two corners, like they had been chopped off.
โ€œMust be how they areโ€ I thought.

Reassembled it back together and squirted fuel in. Well bugger me if it was not flowing, like river flowing, out the idle transfer slots in the secondaries.

A bit of googling to trace the route of this port and the secondary bowl was removed again. Yep, that bloody plate gasket should have been rectangle as it was exposing the gallery leading to the transfer slot. The correct gasket covers this, as confirmed by the other 450 I have. Back to the shops I goโ€ฆ

Next night: Armed with a new gasket, I removed the metering plate, installed the new gasket and reassembled everything yet again.





Fuel added and she is now holding fuel as it should. I will wait for the weekend before pissing the neighbours off again to test my handiwork.

Weekend. The 450 is just not a happy carb. Not sure why and canโ€™t be bothered with it any more- until next timeโ€ฆ Back to the 750 I go. Defeated, OK, yes.

Decided to change the vacuum secondary spring to a lighter one; performance seeking I was. Well, this resulted in the secondaries leaking and basically nearly drowning the poor motor. Off it comes again.

Right, as I am bored of writing about my dodgy carb exploits I will save you all a few steps. In the end, the vacuum diaphragm spring was too light and the airflow past was causing the butterflies to open a bit (taking up the slack in the linkage) to draw fuel out the venturis, thus defeating the idle circuit. Stronger spring swapped in, butterflies kept closed, no dodgy leaks and we are in business. DJR is considering signing me up as their carby swap guy for the next round of races.

On the last test, I engaged a gear and the clutch seems to work fine. Diff spun and nothing weird happened so that went well.

Went to install the grille and saw that it screws in from the radiator side; radiator must come out. This is not a biggie and drained it again of the water so I can add the coolant. Even though I flushed the block a couple of times and the radiator until the water ran clear, the warm-ups during the recent carbie adventures have freed a lot of crap out of somewhere and the flushing is getting rid of it; a good thing.

Last day of the week. Played with the headlight surrounds to recall how these fit. These things are secured by two tangs along the top of the top radiator panel via two phillips screws heads into a small J nut with a washer under the head of the screw. Sounds dodgy and looks the same. This car used bolts, the same as the others along this panel, to secure the tangs and I will go the same way. Looks consistent and not like an after-thought. Cleaned the bolts up and gave them a coat of black.

Here is the car now with a smile.




Reinstalled the radiator and this time put coolant in after flushing the radiator a couple more times.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

View user's profilePhoto Gallery
MustangMedic
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Jul 28, 2010
Posts: 2516
Location: The Fraser Coast

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


Luv the story as usual Jacko.
Would it be worthwhile installing a Tefba filter to ensure any debris is captured, and ensuring you don't block the radiator? Will inspect your work Tuesday night.
Cheers,
Ash


Cheers.
Medic
(Always work smarter not harder!!!)
67 C Code coupe
97 SN-95 Convertible

View user's profilePhoto Gallery
Nuts
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Jul 31, 2010
Posts: 4211
Location: Can someone send me some of that "Clean" coal for my furnace. My wood has frozen..

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


Hey Jacko. up at the Cooma Motor Fest on Saturday the worst HX Munro won the Best Monaro prize in amongst a sea of HT's. Methinks you are wasting your time.


My Motto - Don't get Caught! If you do, Blame Someone Else!

MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

View user's profileSend e-mail
Astro
Mustang Maniac

Offline
Joined: Jan 16, 2013
Posts: 1026
Location: Baffurst

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


Good work Jacko - coming together nicely.
I feel another road trip to your garage coming on.
When does it start warming up down there?

J


I spent half my money on mustangs, mustangs and more mustangs. The other half I wasted on mustangs - and an Effie.ย

View user's profileSend e-mailPhoto Gallery
ozbilt
Site Admin

Offline
Joined: Jul 27, 2010
Posts: 10363
Location: Now at the Duggo Ranch

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


Astro wrote
Good work Jacko - coming together nicely.
I feel another road trip to your garage coming on.
When does it start warming up down there?

J


It does not "warm up". Only to weather variances there, f'n hot or f'n cold ........ Shocked


Kerry

It is easier to get older than it it is to get wiser

View user's profile
Ausjacko
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Aug 03, 2010
Posts: 2125
Location: Canberra

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


Oz is actually right there. It was a balmy 19deg today but we needed the rain- the sleet no so much.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

View user's profilePhoto Gallery
MustangMedic
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Jul 28, 2010
Posts: 2516
Location: The Fraser Coast

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


Impressive work Jacko,
A job well done, will be great to see it on the road.
Ash


Cheers.
Medic
(Always work smarter not harder!!!)
67 C Code coupe
97 SN-95 Convertible

View user's profilePhoto Gallery
soc123_au
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Jul 29, 2010
Posts: 2619
Location: Thinking of a happy place

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


Its been a while since I've been on here. I can see someone has been busy. Love your work as usual Jacko, some of the stuff you do & your unique way of problem solving is a credit to you. Cant wait to see it finished.


Album Link Below.

s608.photobucket.com/p...s_Prestige

View user's profilePhoto Gallery
rkmiller73
Senior Mustang

Offline
Joined: Jan 02, 2013
Posts: 265
Location: Kansas, USA

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


Jacko that is a great synopsis. I like the video editing too.

Glad you got the premature ejection problem fixed ... from the carburetor. Poke

The car looks and sounds great.


View user's profileVisit poster's website
Ausjacko
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Aug 03, 2010
Posts: 2125
Location: Canberra

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


rkmiller73 wrote
Jacko that is a great synopsis. I like the video editing too.

Glad you got the premature ejection problem fixed ... from the carburetor. .


Hey Ryan, sometimes referred to as Rick, Randall or Ronald, good to see you are catching on ;-)


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

View user's profilePhoto Gallery
Ausjacko
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Aug 03, 2010
Posts: 2125
Location: Canberra

0 ๐Ÿ‘ / 0 ๐Ÿ‘Ž


13 November 2017
Time to step inside and hang about: the interior and exhaust
As everything seems to be in order electrical wise, I am starting on the interior reassembly. First off were the two rear side panels. Got the pieces together and remembered the rear also has armrests. Figured out how these orient from the removal photos and held them in place to get a sense of where the holes were- no holes. As luck would have it, the black removable panels on each side were swapped. A few screws and I swapped them around and now the armrest holes line-up.

Before going anything further, I grabbed some warm water and a cloth and cleaned around the area I was about to cover-up to remove any dust of other grime that had settled in the areas.

Fitted the door card clips facing them toward the edges (makes sense if you see one), cut the holes for the ashtray, window winder and seatbelt bolt.




Grabbed the ashtrays from the shed (filthy things that they are) and fitted these. They are held in by a couple of snazzy spring clips that grip them from the rear.




With these bits fitted, I then carefully lined up the card on the body. A few adjustments of the clips to line them up into the plastic bungs and then a few firm thumps and it was home again. Trimmed the excess off from under the windlace along the front and they look pretty cool.




Grabbed some universal exhaust hangers from a shop through the week and fitted them on the weekend. I decided to mount them so that they bolt into the floor for a few reasons. Firstly, the original exhaust was hung like this; secondly, it makes it easier to remove the exhaust by simply unbolting it and lastly if you unbolt it the floor is like new again.

Decided to weld the bolt inside the car to 3mm plate to spread the load on the floor. Nuts welded on and plates tacked to the floor to stop them moving.




This was a good location as it is under the rear seat.

Next was to modify the hangers to match. I had to open one up in order to flip the rubber and knobby thing to face rearward. Then I heated the hanging piece of rod up so I could bend it to match the run of the exhaust tube; looks like an S shape.




With that done, I bolted the hangers up to the floor and welded the rod along the exhaust. Here is how they look






I am happy with how these turned out as you can hardly see them looking under the car and they are pretty robust, meaning the exhaust it not likely to move much.

Back inside the car, I fitted the rear seat back. Did this, took some snaps




then realised I needed to unclip said seat back to fit the lower seatbelt mounts- doh!

Did that and she is hopefully there to stay.




Not sure about the black belts but they will be easy to remove completely or change colour (cash makes lots of things happen as you know) down the track.

With me enjoying the install, I thought I would tackle a niggling bloody bug-bear annoying shitty issue. The fan switch only works on high and then only after some jiggling. While pondering this fix I thought I would replace the left indicator bulb with the new ones I bought at the swap meet. Tested said globe and it only worked when high beam was on and then the high beam lamp did not work. Ah, the joys of the dash.

Checking the wiring diagram showed they both share a common earth on the instrument cluster (there is one spade connector each side). As the fan switch is buried at the top of the dash and the earth connector is similarly secreted away on the top of the cluster, I decided to take them out. Yep, more bloody under dash time-oh joy (insert pissed off icon).

Stuck under the dash, I noticed a way to remove the fan switch and heater slider assembly it is screwed to without necessarily removing the dash radio/heater fascia, floor pan and engine. A couple of screws and some divine intervention and she was out. Unscrewed the switch and she was not happy. WD40โ€™ed it as it is sealed and basically cleaned it up as best I could. Tested it and she works. I think it was a dirty connection and the connectors need to be pushed on firmly.

Instrument cluster was just as easy to remove but I was dreading reinstalling the bloody choke blank due to my lack of 250mm long fingers. Sure enough, the earth spade connector was off the cluster, probably when I was playing around with the bulbs above it.

Ignition, light and wiper switches reinstalled (add one hour due to only having one joint in my arms) and it was time for the bloody choke blank. I had removed the ashtray slider thingy (that the tray slides into) and this made access much easier (as easy as under the dah gets mind you). Got that sucker on in only 30mins.

Unfortunately, to get the heater slider with attached fan switch back in I had to remove the glovebox insert and dash speaker with attached ducting and demister vents. How much fun was that โ€“ none at all actually. Did it, tested the switch and it works and then reassembled the dash parts once again.

I am now much happier knowing that everything works as it should do; no dodginess.

As I have been falling into and getting stabbed by the two mounting bolts in it, next up was the shifter. The gear lever opening has a metal plate bolted around it that holds the shifter boot in place. After a vacuum of the interior




and removing the pillow, blanket (for my old bones) various tools, Chinese containers and other crap, I could play with the shifter. The PO had cut this plate for some reason and given the opening a bit of massaging as Big Mc may recall; why?

The plate was an easy one as it did not match the now repaired opening. The RS boot and repro plate were the same and are a bit too narrow for the opening, hence the PO had cut slits along the back edge of the plate and bent the โ€˜earsโ€™ up and over to clear the shifter in 2nd and 4th gears.

I could not see any reason not to use the original plate as long as I tidied it up. Plate scribed and trimmed to size to match the opening; much neater.




Now the shifter clears the edges with room to spare.

He vacuumed? Fear not, I am not a cleanliness freak and vacuumed the car as I wanted to sit the underlay and carpet in place so they could take some shape through the week. To do this I had to remove the shifter I had just bolted on- see a theme here?

Shifter off, underlay in and carpet unwrapped from its home of the past 12 months. Sat it in place and looks OK but there are no holes for the shifter, high beam switch etc. It will take a bit of fiddling to get it sorted but with some warm weather it should settle in nicely. A sneak peek:




Next I will get the exhaust connected to the rear muffler and focus on the carpet. Might even fit the steering wheel and heater box.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

View user's profilePhoto Gallery
All times are Australia/Sydney
Go to page Previous 1, 2, 3 โ€ฆ 55, 56 57 58, 59, 60, 61 Next


Jump to:

TopPostersToday
   Shaunp 
 Posts: 
 2 

   66STNG 
 Posts: 
 2 

   unilec5544 
 Posts: 
 2 

   boofhead 
 Posts: 
 1 

LatestForumPosts
Last 10 Forum Messages

66 roof bows
Last post by unilec5544 in General Tech Advice on Jan 18, 2018 20:40:04

Merts deceased estate sale
Last post by unilec5544 in Pre 1973 on Jan 18, 2018 20:29:41

Years in the making....
Last post by ACTstanglover in Mustang Projects on Jan 17, 2018 23:18:27

Dan Gurney passes away
Last post by ozbilt in Events on Jan 17, 2018 10:40:17

67 FG Resto Mod
Last post by Roger in Mustang Projects on Jan 17, 2018 06:54:24

Husky's 65 Restomod
Last post by Husky65 in Mustang Projects on Jan 16, 2018 19:19:52

Canberra
Last post by Ausjacko in Events on Jan 16, 2018 17:32:16

Jacko's Project
Last post by Ausjacko in Other Projects on Jan 14, 2018 19:58:14

New Heart for Scarlet
Last post by soc123_au in Mustang Projects on Jan 12, 2018 22:29:21

Project Brandy
Last post by ozbilt in Mustang Projects on Jan 12, 2018 12:37:51

SocialMedia

Like this page? Google +1 it!