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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Project Brandy > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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ozbilt
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hybrid wrote
Pretty sure he has an overflow tank.


He does, came with the rad (Ron Davis)


Kerry

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boofhead
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hybrid wrote
Those trident caps that supercheap sell should be fine.
I remember being concerned about the filler neck on your rad when I saw it last, but I can't remember exactly what I saw. The cap is really tight screwing on - maybe that's it.
Maybe it doesn't use a normal type cap? Shrug


The caps that are designed for the overflow open at a designated pressure.
This is related to temperature. I tend to run a 16psi cap which releases around 240 deg. So you may have a 6 psi cap or your overflow system is not working correctly or the cap is not sealing correctly. The ron davis radiator does have a tight filler. I have not concluded what are good caps and what are not so cannot help there.

Establish if the pissing out was from the overflow in the overflow tank? (It is small) or if it is from around the radiator cap - this will help tell you what to look for.
Lastly, try to use the same coolant as mixing different brands and coolants is not wise.


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hybrid
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Yeah the little tabs on the cap scrape on the filler neck. It's really tight and does not feel right to me.
I'm pretty sure it's not a low pressure cap.

But yeah, even when it lets go it should not come out the cap - it should go into the overflow.


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gbx78
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hybrid wrote
Yeah the little tabs on the cap scrape on the filler neck. It's really tight and does not feel right to me.
I'm pretty sure it's not a low pressure cap.

But yeah, even when it lets go it should not come out the cap - it should go into the overflow.


The cap i gave cage was new (i kept spare) as i had went through a phase where trident and aca were hit and miss with that radiator. I could hear it hissing at the cap. Its definately an overflow cap and 16psi. I can concur with hybrid, they are very tight to fit on that neck (my mr gasket had the same issue so i doubt its the caps.. the tabs needed to be lifted a touch (i remember kerry did that to one of mine) for the cap to completely tighten on the neck and not just half way when it feels tight.

Cage, measure the depth of your neck and compare to the depth of the cap to see if its sealing. But agree with boof and hybrid, need to determine if its the cap or neck .. also check that the cap is tightening all the way.

I do remember as hybrid mentioned, there was questioning at one point when it leaked whether it was cap or neck. Wasnt that the time i gave you a new cap to try? Its been fine since hasnt it? Also make sure your hoses are tight and thermostat area are tight so there are no leaks (air or water) i think you said you saw drips at the thermostat


'You can never test fire too many times.' - Hybrid

'You can never have too many gauges' -
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Last edited by gbx78 on Sun Nov 20, 2016 9:33 am; edited 1 time in total

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cage
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Ok I sorted it out this morning. To confirm it was literally running like a tap out of the bottom of the cap not the overflow. Reason is exactly what Hybrid was saying, it wasn't turned on fully as the neck has a last turn down that is more af a square step then a smooth progression. You really have to push down hard to get over it. Effectively the cap was not fully on. Problem solved.


"The simple answer is, even if I have decided I still don't know what to do."

Last edited by cage on Sun Nov 20, 2016 10:18 am; edited 4 times in total

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hybrid
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The cap we ended up buying was exactly the same as the one you gave him G.
We didn't realise until after we'd already bought it.

Maybe we can bend those tabs out a bit or file them down a bit to make it easier.
My chinese radiator doesn't have that problem Mr. Green


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cage
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Did the final mock up, temporary install today of the fan and shroud but this time I wired it up and went for a little drive.

It is so much better, did not get over 180degrees at any stage. Man this fan sucks some air.

Now I can take the rad out and mount the shroud on it permanently.




"The simple answer is, even if I have decided I still don't know what to do."

Last edited by cage on Mon Dec 26, 2016 8:01 pm; edited 1 time in total

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ozbilt
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Well done, glad it sucks well .... Very Happy ....


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cage
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Had time yesterday to take the car for a run to Cronulla and back to make sure the fan is doing its job before I permanently mount it. Run to Cronulla was perfect and the temp was 180-190 so all good. Had a nice coffee while watching the waves and other things.

Half way home the temp started to rise over 190, then 200, then 220, f'me what is wrong now. By the time I got home it was over 220 and as soon as I stopped in my driveway she started to spew. Out of the cap again even though you can't put it on any further. Bloody coolant everywhere. There was some coolant in the overflow tank but it didn't release from that point for some reason. Anyway that is not the real issue re this post.



Turned the ignition on and no fan, well that explains why it got so hot as I was concerned even this fan was not doing the job. Well why wasn't it working then. My teachings from "The Hybrid" kicked in and I thought let's check the relay. Relay looked OK but hang on why is the inline fuse sticking to my accelerator cable.



Thought I better cut that out and have a good look at it as I am guessing this has something to do with why the fan wasn't working. Below are the photos of what I found.





WOW! A quick call to Hybrid and it was time to put a new relay in with a 30amp fuse as a starting point. Jeff was concerned about the size of the wires and after also talking to GBX there is no way he believes the wires we used for the standard fan are suitable for this new beast of a fan. Anyway I needed to change the relay/fuse so that is the first step and let's see how we went.




A bit of wire stripping, soldering and we were ready to have another crack. Went for another drive and after 5-6 sets of lights and a couple of decent squirts and the temp did not go over 190 so it looks like the fan is doing its job well. Problem is that the relay was super hot at the end of the drive, and I mean hot not just a little bit warm. Fuse didn't blow though so the fan is not drawing more that 30amps. Looks like we are back to the wire gauge again. So, 8 gauge 40amp wire needed I am guessing or 4mm.


"The simple answer is, even if I have decided I still don't know what to do."

Last edited by cage on Tue Jan 03, 2017 3:58 pm; edited 5 times in total

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hybrid
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Did you get a chance to feel the wires themselves?
Fan specs say around 23A draw from memory, so the 30A rated relay should be OK, but you can always go for a bigger one which shouldn't get hot. No use changing wires if they aren't getting hot. Warm is OK.
Rather than swapping to a single bigger wire, you could just run a second wire and control high/low speeds separately via separate relays.


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gbx78
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Yeah thats a worry ..re coolant coming out of the cap or the filler neck. I thinknthis eas discussed the first time as to where it was leaking from.

Hybrid makes a good point abut the temp of the wires but if that pic is any indication..looks pretty hot.

As mentioned before those suckers pull abut 23-24amps ..30amp relay should be fine but i question if the wires there are only rated for 15amps. But I agree with hybrid run another wire to control the other speed rather than 1 big wire and running highspeed all the time. This way you are prepared for hook up AC or manual switch to whichever relay for activatoon. You should only need low speed for most part..ask boof he hasnt even hit highspeed .. short of some fancy controller and get a dual temp thermo switch to control the second fan (or another single switch). im glad you are sorting it out and understanding your car better.


'You can never test fire too many times.' - Hybrid

'You can never have too many gauges' -
Boofhead

Last edited by gbx78 on Tue Jan 03, 2017 5:12 pm; edited 1 time in total

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boofhead
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The fan draws what it states rather than BS figure a lot of fans use.
The wire is to thin I would suggest (as Hybrid stated) use two relays one for high speed and one for low speed. This is how I have mine wired - the ECU switches the speeds as required based on temperature. I am not sure I have ever hit high speed mode.

Just make sure you cannot turn on high speed if low speed is not on. This is not good for the fan.


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hybrid
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I was talking about switching both speeds on together (at least until he is EFI), but if boof has only ever used low speed, maybe the simplest option here is to just try it on low speed.
Now is the time to test it while the weather is hottest.

That way, there is a good chance that no wiring mods are even needed.

Personally I think it's the shroud making most of the difference anyway.


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gbx78
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Thats a good idea actually. From memory low speed is only about 15amp?? So wire what you have to low speed only for now . Remove the highspeed wire where you bridged the two. Do some testing then think about what you want to do with highspeed (manual or auto switchable )


'You can never test fire too many times.' - Hybrid

'You can never have too many gauges' -
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cage
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You three Rock. I will get this done tomorrow. Cheers guys


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