Shaun, there are 3 things I did to the hilux that stopped roo strikes.
lots of light - I have a 50" 280w light bar plus 2 lightforce 240mm spotties with HID bulbs.
noise - I have a klaxon horn off a 37 Cadillac. When I see roos I give it a blast and they do turn away. Works for sheep and school kids dawdling on pedestrian crossings too. Klaxons are legal as they are electric not air.
ultrasonic roo repellants from superdump for about $7 a pair.
I know they supposedly work at high frequency like a dog whistle and maybe they are a novelty but at the price I use them anyway and I haven't accidentally cleaned up a critter for 3 years.
Thanks for the advice, we've got a set of chrome roo whistles on the family Territory. I'll get another chrome set and mount them in the lower chrome part of the Stangs grille. I did the halogen conversion for headlights with 2 relays, 60/55 for the outers and just 55's for high beam to get it through roadworthy. I've got a set of 100w bulbs to go in after it passes. Has anyone tried the HID bulb kits for halogen lights? I'm not sure how legal they are but a mate has them in his XR6 and says they're great. You see the kits on ebay and they are pretty cheap.
The coupe had rust in the rear floor pans, nothing major, and after I started cleaning up the floors with a wire wheel, found more in the pax side front. Looking back I would have been better off getting full length pans but I'd already bought the rear half pans.
The pax side seat platform had rust in the front face so I ordered a new platform and cut the old one out.
There was a fair bit of surface rust under the platform so it was cleaned up with a wire wheel and treated with rust blast. I bought the KBS coatings chassis coater kit which came with a degreaser, the rust blast rust convertor and chassis coat urethane paint. I was pretty impressed with the results so I plan on doing the entire floor inside and out with this stuff. I found out the hard way that fastback and coupe seat platforms are a different height- after I'd welded in the new one!! I moved the platforms back about 20mm, not a lot and can still bolt the seats in without elongating the factory access holes.
There were a couple of bubbles in the lower firewall that I've patched as well. I'm not the neatest welder around but looks alright and most of it is hidden under sound deadener, carpets etc when it gets finished.
Thanks for the compliments guys!! It keeps me motivated. I haven't had any formal training on a automotive trades, I'm actually an aircraft maintenance engineer by trade. I've been playing around with cars since I was a kid, my Dad and Grandad fixed the family cars themselves with me passing the spanners, watching and learning. Then when I started on my own cars I had to fix them myself because I was always broke and couldn't afford to pay someone else!! The other reason I have a go myself is every time I've paid people to work on my cars they've fucked it up and I've had to redo it myself anyway. The Mustang bug bit me early- Grandad had a 72 Mach1 in the late 70's and I loved that car!!!
I had a set of the round hole 12 slotters so decided to clean them up and they'll be the wheels until I can raise some cash for better wheels. I'll probably only go to a 15 inch wheel. I'm tossing up between Ansen sprints or one of the torque thrust style wheels. The Centerline Telstars on it aren't my thing.
I'll be using an AOD auto. I fitted this box to my XD 351C about 9 years ago and found the overdrive great on the highway. My only complaint was it was a little over geared with 3.25 rear gears, 1700 rpm @ 100kmh. I've got 3.50 gears for the coupe so the gearing should be about right, good from a standing start and about 2000rpm @ 100kmh. I bought the box as a reco unit but it's been sitting for about 5 years so I'll get it looked over before fitting. Ignore the homemade brackets for the shifter and tv cable, I've bought the Lokar shift link and tv cable set up. At the time I fitted the box to the XD there wasn't much info about fitting AOD's to Aussie Falcons so I had to make everything to get it to work. I bought a PA Automatics valve body that rearranges the shift pattern to 1-2-D-N-R-P. I've got a stock 1900 convertor that worked well with the 351 but might go to about a 2400 convertor. I still need to get an AOD crossmember and tailshaft yoke, as a C4 yoke fits but is about 40mm too long.
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