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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Project Pheonix > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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66STNG
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Just found the part on the net, and yes it's an air temp sensor, should be to just pull it out and glue it into the new air duct..
Cheers...


66 basket case

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boofhead
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66STNG wrote
Just found the part on the net, and yes it's an air temp sensor, should be to just pull it out and glue it into the new air duct..
Cheers...


yep.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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lukep6470
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If it is a stock Ford ECU no O2 sensors will make it run rough.


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66STNG
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lukep6470 wrote
If it is a stock Ford ECU no O2 sensors will make it run rough.

I hope so, started it again today and would not idle at first and is running very rough. Will attach the sensors back in next week and try again.


66 basket case

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Husky65
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Yup it's an intake temp sensor, earlier models had them in the #5 runner.
No o2's will cause rough running as it would run rich as a pig and foul the plugs up.
it should still idle and drive though, it will just be rich and eventually do funky things when the plugs stop working. The o2 sensors don't kick in for a while anyway, as it will run another fueling map until it goes into closed loop. In other words, it should still start normally and idle as it would a normal cold start(if the plugs are good)

Other things to check - timing set correctly with your crank trigger setup, ignition system(wires routed correctly etc), fuel pressure(should have a port on your fuel rail for a gauge), and maf sensor clean(is it stock?).


Last edited by Husky65 on Fri May 05, 2017 7:23 am; edited 1 time in total

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lukep6470
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If it's running as bad as all that it might be in limp home mode. Time for checking error codes.


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66STNG
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All the EFI gear is stock, it came out of a running AU series 3 ute, I have removed the crank trigger to paint it.???
Can the timing be changed? it has no dizzy, just coil packs?


66 basket case

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Husky65
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Come to think of it, the timing shoudn't have changed as the trigger wheels is attached to the stock balancer, so the ecu should know it's position.
First off I'd check all the basics again, definately check fuel pressure. Check for any leaks etc. Are you using a j3 chip?


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66STNG
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Yes im running the J3 chip, had the motor running with it installed prior to painting it and putting it in the car, You may be right, ill check the basics, see if a plug lead, fuel pressure is correct ect./..
Any idea of what it should be, im running the pump from the AU so it should be OK, I hope, I did have to alter the pump to fit in the Tank...


66 basket case

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Husky65
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yeah it should be around 40psi with the vacuum disconnect from the fpr


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66STNG
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.
Quick update,
The last time I was on I was having issues with the engine running poorly. I finally found that the MAF sensor is stuffed. It was fine when I ran the engine prior to painting so it was the last thing I looked for.
Anyway, got some new goodies to put in the car.
4 speed right hand shifter.

..
New electronic and programable guages with senders


New 6 guage bezel..brushed aluminium and chrome, looks groovy.


66 basket case

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Husky65
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Glad to hear you got that problem sorted out. How did you figure out it was the maf?


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66STNG
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Husky65 wrote
Glad to hear you got that problem sorted out. How did you figure out it was the maf?

.
Mate I'm an expert at anything EFI or engine related. Actually no, I had all the inputs unplugged, I accidentally left the MAF sensor plug off, started the car and it ran and idled beautifully. I then noticed the plug off, pushed on the MAF plug and it ran like a hairy goat..........
Or blind dumb luck.......🌀


66 basket case

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Husky65
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The bad (or good) news is it's not necessarily a bad maf. With the maf unplugged, the ecu will use failed maf table, which uses rpm/tps for load. So if the maf is bad, it may run better with it unplugged.
However, if you have a major air leak somewhere, with the maf it will run rough, and without the maf it may run a lot better. It's not the maf that is the issue, but the 'mafless' table the ecu is using can mask the issue.
So, I'd see if you can grab another maf and test it before you throw yours out.


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66STNG
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Husky65 wrote
The bad (or good) news is it's not necessarily a bad maf. With the maf unplugged, the ecu will use failed maf table, which uses rpm/tps for load. So if the maf is bad, it may run better with it unplugged.
However, if you have a major air leak somewhere, with the maf it will run rough, and without the maf it may run a lot better. It's not the maf that is the issue, but the 'mafless' table the ecu is using can mask the issue.
So, I'd see if you can grab another maf and test it before you throw yours out.

.
I did a smoke test and no leaks. However, due to cutting the loom I'm going to bell out the wires from the MAF plug, just to make sure I haven't stuffed up somewhere. Ie a bad earth, floating ground, as it was fine prior to painting the engine.
I've ordered an OBD2, which may give me some insight into what's happening. I'm sure it's something simple..


66 basket case

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