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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > GT/CS tidy up > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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mert
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Decided it was time to spruce up the GT/CS. Shop had a window or opportunity, and the EXP is on hold for various reasons...

Stripping begin, about 5 hours of work and

  • all badges and exterior trim
  • hood locks
  • rear panel and valence
  • rear seat and rear interior panels
  • trunk area bits
  • vinyl top
  • headliners
  • windows
  • side scoops

Removed...

Overall the car is in good shape. So far no surprises and the rust under the vinyl roof was far less significant than I expected (see other post in restoration ref sections)

Plan is to strip horizontal surfaces, scuff back the rest. Pull engine and repaint bay/repaint engine, some new minor wiring under hood (oil feed, hood turn signals), new motor mounts, and completely redone brakes (master cylinder to drums). Some new suspension rubber, but nothing else under the car.

Hopping 8-12 weeks... we'll see...







One odd area near the rear window, hard to tell but almost looks like some factory error in the metal... very odd, need to dig a bit further and see what happens in stripping the paint and prepping the rear glass channel... a big "flange" of metal away from the base, but with pint over it and as the second paint job was a quick and nasty and overspray is on most trim edges not sure if this is factory or some form of "repair"....



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ponyride
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You work quick mert, good luck with the spruce up.


Rick.

Old things amuse all minds.

Last edited by ponyride on Tue Aug 20, 2013 12:11 am; edited 1 time in total

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tim_morrison82
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mert, my coupe also had a similar detail in the lead work on the opposite side. it looked like it was 'delaminating' from the steel. i dug around a bit trying to work it out and made a mess of it...

it could have been a surface prep problem on the line, or something...


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ozbilt
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It is the lead wiped area & the acid was never removed properly. A common issue when you consider how much time they had on the line to do that operation.

Remove ALL the lead, fully seam weld the join & then you can use plastic filler.


Kerry

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mert
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I'll remove the flaking area, some rust will get blasted and taken back to bare metal and the shop will prep and re-lead the area. About the same effort as bog...

Fun to watch their guy do lead, makes it look sooooo easy but boy is it tricky... let me have a play, and made a mess of it!


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ozbilt
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So what are the issues with the rest of the 1/4 to roof join? You will never know until you remove all the lead. You will find issues near where the rear 1/4 window is located when you remove the lead.

Lead will not stick to blasted metal. Has to be ground or wire buffed. You will still have the issue with the acid removal.

I have been lead wiping for 45 years, so I know the issues. There is no issue with plastic filler when seam welded.


Kerry

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mert
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Don't know, has not been stripped. Nothing is evident inside or out right now.

As noted the shop will prep for the leadwork, if they recommend something else after opening it up and looking, fine by me.

I'll leave it to them. They do cars for Pebble Beach and similar restorations and do a lot of fabrication, not just weld a few bits and bog and paint, so know what to do... not going to dictate anything on metal repairs to them.


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ozbilt
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ahh yes, Pebble Beach. Have not knocked that one off yet. Had a couple of entries, but no wins thus far. All the other big ones in California have been successful entries, but that one eludes me .....


Kerry

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boofhead
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I wanted to play the Golf course there for many years......one day.


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mert
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Bring a bag on money... when I lived near there in the mid 80's green fees were about a couple hundred, now $495 for a round....

A friend was a chef there and I passed on his offer to play a round there, kinda regret it now, but was never a keen golfer... coulda broken 100... never understood the challenge.... 127, 119, 137 ... easy! Wink2


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mert
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Back to the topic...

First factory mark found.



Overall a few minor repairs are turning up, but overall its looking like a very solid car and the repaint should (hopefully) not spin out into any significant forays into replacing metal.

Looked at the lead issue and they say a minor repair, all the metal around the lead seam looks good, other than the small area in the rear window "wing". Remove, repair, replace.

Stripping continues, unfortunately a PO put some black spray paint/lining in the trunk and it all needs to go.

All the glass is out, hood and trunk lid off and stripped, decals removed, test fit the new (OEM) door and it fits very well.

Looking good...



Swapped the 390/C6 from the EXP mule to the chrome/polishing guy for him redoing all the chrome and stainless on the car. So zero cash outflow for all new looking OEM trims and badging... win/win I get rid of two paperweights no one wanted and new looking trims!


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nassi
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mert wrote
never understood the challenge.... 127, 119, 137 ... easy! Wink2


When you can acheive this on both 9's you know your on the way. Laughing


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boofhead
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mert wrote
Bring a bag on money... when I lived near there in the mid 80's green fees were about a couple hundred, now $495 for a round....

A friend was a chef there and I passed on his offer to play a round there, kinda regret it now, but was never a keen golfer... coulda broken 100... never understood the challenge.... 127, 119, 137 ... easy! Wink2


I know it is expensive and it is open to the public only on select days. I would pay the $500 just for the once in a life time experience of playing that course. I would be happy with 129 for 9 - get my moneys worth.....


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mert
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Inspected the underside, very pleased. Wiped a small area and the factory red oxide is there and in very good shape.



Looks like a bit of time with some cleaner and it may come up as good a Shaun's.... Mr. Green

Engine ready to come out, OEM PS pump based on color, complete air cleaner still intact, VIN stamped.







Factory paint stripes found on driveshaft, original H pipe but from the muffler back looked to be either original cut and welded to a Midas muffler long ago, or after market, as it was all welded had to hacksaw it apart...

Looking to be a fairly good condition semi-survivor except for the front LH side which looks like it too a whack and fender and bucket (Ford service replacement based on primer color) and door (the 67 for sale) were replaced... old front springs had factory red/yellow paint...


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Shaunp
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Richard I sprayed mine with super cheap degreaser, scrubbed and water blasted it.


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