Do not worry too much about the gap around the floor to the inner wheel arch. A few pair of vice grips will bring it together while you weld it. As your "before" picture attests, it had a gap. The resistance welders they used at the factory had huge clamping forces, so they never worried too much.
Imagine spotting over 400 (200 each side) wheel arches to a floor assembly on a shift. Probably by the second day I would not have been caring too much either ......
It is easier to get older than it it is to get wiser
OK so after thinking about things at work all day, last night I made a few quick measurements after work on the frame/jig.
From the quick measurements the floor pan/car body may be where they are supposed to be. It is darn close.
My dad is coming down from Kansas this weekend - I need a second person to look at this from an outsider perspective. We will recheck the measurements and the overall position of the car and the floor pan assembly.
I have been neck deep in this so long and working by myself that I may not realize what I may be missing - like editing your own writing.
I will give you an update later this weekend. These are just my random obsessive thoughts.
My ma and pa came down for Easter weekend. Dad helped me pull the body back up off the floor pan and the jig and we refit it/lowered it back down.
I don't know if it is because I have done this a few times now or if having an extra person to help did it, but it was much easier this time around. Dad tapped a few places as it was going down and helped to push it in place while I was working other areas- something I could not do by myself.
In retrospect, it is a two person job.
Lowering the body onto the frame (while it is setting on the jig) was the best way to go - I forgot to mention that when I took the floor pan out of the crate onto the jig that is is a little floppy (like dead weight). I cannot imagine trying to push up evenly on the floor pan from beneath to get it into the body.
I reattached the front end to the jig and then we worked on getting the front of the floot pan in.
I took a jack and a piece of a 2X4 and then started at the back of the inner rocker and jacked up the floor pan a little section at a time - vise gripping along the way and did both sides. The floor pan went up nicely and so did the frame extensions, they did not even need to be tapped up.
There is still more of a gap at the inner wheel well where I showed you guys last time, but it is better - if they would have left a little more of a lip projecting downward, that would be great to bend up and take up the left over space. It will bend up, but there is not much to spot weld to so I may doa small fillet weld to the inner wheel house there and put in seam sealer.
I also checked again to make sure the body is level along with the frame jig pioints from side to side.
Here are the photos.
First photo is after the fact, but I put the jack up there for demonstration.
Next 3 photo shows the level references rechecked. See arrows.
Last photo is a rear shot. I reattached the side cowl mount at the lower door hinge location and it lined up.
This is the corrosion resistant weld thru primer I am using on the surfaces that will be spot welded.
Several people have asked me about my opinion of the entire floor pan assembly fit/ finish/ and install process.
My thoughts on this are:
1. Detailed - make sure you are specific on year and what you need on the floor pan- early vs. late (brake/fuel line routing), type of rear axle, dual exhuast, convertible or fastback/hardtop, etc. Stampings were good and matched the original close - not exact but close.
2. quality primer - not DP40, but a good basic red primer
3. Fit - seemed to fit realatively well - pan was square and level
1. bad spot welds - about 1 in 10 were bad and I had to weld them up
2. needs primer coating inside the frame rails
3. save your seat brackets, rear brake line bracket, you will need to properly locate these onto the new floor pan - but that is not a big issue.
4. outer passenger seat belt backing on both sides is a threaded block of steel instead of the original style bracket.
5. some of the flanges could have a little extra metal to help fill small gaps between panels at the rear of the inner rocker panel
I have done the floor pan patches up front and in the trunk. I have also done the one piece floor pan up front and in the trunk. Compared to these this complete floor pan assembly was overall easier and saved time.
If you are on a lower budget and have lots of free time/experience then the individual pans might be a better option - if your frame rails are good.
Would I buy this again - yes and I would mention the issues I had before buying to make sure they can try to provide a better product.
I think this is a good product and would rather do it this way now that I have some experience with it.
Time on this was:
Floor pan assembly removal - 5 hours
Inner rocker panel removal - 3 hours each
torque box removal - 1.5 hours
Fitting the floor pan back onto the body - 8 hours (now that I have done it I think the next one will take more around 4 - 5 hours)
Part of what saved time was having the body dipped for removal of rust, paint and sealer. With the car being 100% rust free now it saved time cleaning up panels and evaluating where rust might have eaten through.
I hope this helps some of you out, it is not as hard to do as it looks, just requires a few extra tools to move big heavy metal precisely in small increments (I don't think having 6 guys holding up on the body or floor pan for 30 minutes to several hours would work).
Thanks for taking the time to share that info with us, it's what makes this forum full of awesome!
(PRAYER) Oh thank you Wild Turkey American Honey & Cola in those small thin bottles, for giving me the strength to act like a half wit, and say stupid things at inappropriate times, semi-anonymously, on a public forum.
I have worked with guys that swear by different directions to weld panels up to avoid warpage.
I have welded panels from center out, front to back and back to front. I usually go from one side to another and let it set for a while after a few welds to avoid heating things up too much.
I see you have done many mustangs and I was wondering what has worked for you when welding up these thin sheet metal panels.
That is an advantage to the pre-war vehicles with thicker sheet metal. It is more forgiving.
I weld cars up on original joins, so that makes it easier as so far as warpage is concerned. Good method that has worked for me is to mark out where spots are going & weld say ever 3 one, going around until they are all welded. Definitely NEVER weld from one end to another ( especially if one end is not held in place ) as the panel will move.
If I am making a butt join in the middle of a panel, I look for a place to make the join that has the most amount of shape & also is accessible to the reach of my arms. Mark it out so that I can MIG tack at consistent intervals (at least every 3/4" ) & then sand the tacks to level with a flap disc before oxy-acetylene welding the join, hammering as I go ( after every 2" of weld ).
If an area is inaccessible then it becomes a lap join ( after recessing one of the panels ) & after making the tacks every 3/4" with the MIG, then go back and join the next tack to the last ( after allowing the last run to cool ) until the weld is complete.
It is easier to get older than it it is to get wiser
So after I get the floor pan plug welded in my next are of concern (AOC) is the front of the car.
The shock towers rusted thru at the bottom - driver side, pass side pitted bad. Evidently the car was never greased, dirt and moisture took a toll on back country roads in Kansas. (insert Dukes of Hazzard theme song here 🍿 ).
The first photo is at the dipper after rust removal before DP40 primer on the driver side (the worst side).
I am torn on what to do, here are all the options from
1. replace the shock towers
a. New Dynacorn shock tower that I modify with or without bracing - do these fit well?
b. west coast classic cougar sells take out shock towers rust free from 67 - 70 with or without extra reinforcement. Still needs all the spot welds removed, etc.
Here is a photo of the 1970 shock tower they recomended when I called yesterday. They said there are no differences between 67 - 70, but I thought there was something besides the extra bracing you see here.
2. Weld up the old shock tower and add in reinforcement plates
Ryan the factory reinforcements are really too short, they don't go deep enough down the tower they just crack below them, mine were cracked below where they would be on the front edge. Kerry makes his own, think he has some pictures on here somewhere. In real terms I believe they crack because all the pieces , braces etc are just spot welded together. When ford first started selling Falcons in Australia, the front ends fell apart due the rough roads, and farmers using them the round sheep etc like they could with the local GM Holdens. In any case, Australian falcons from about 67 to 85 used basically the same design front end as a 67 mustang, but the bracing on the towers is fully welded rather then just a few spots, they didn't seem to suffer the same issues the mustangs do. I just push the braces back to the towers and fully weld them neatly, grind them back and give them a little wipe of bondo seam sealer etc. I don't think they need much more. Really mate if the towers a rusty, change them for some new ones, not hard to do, fully weld the braces, and if you want to make the wraps your self like Kerry does.
Last edited by Shaunp on Thu Apr 04, 2013 12:06 am; edited 2 times in total
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