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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Projext X 1967 Fastback > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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rkmiller73
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Joined: Jan 02, 2013
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Location: Kansas, USA

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I picked up the car last Friday and hauled it home on my trailer.

So it is now rust free. Although it has numerous holes from the rust.

damage estimated: firewall rusted out quite a bit. cowl - driver side hat channel rusted out. Floor pans - almost gone. Floor pan over transmission has rust. Both rear quarters have rust on over wheel wells and lower rear areas, tail light panel around tail light bezels rusted out, lower parts of the shock towers rusted out and the inner fender panel tops where the panel overlap are rusted out.

I spent a couple days setting up the jig frame using measurements from the Ford manual and cross referencing them to the car. Some measurements from the book were little different, but the measrements were consistent from driver to passenger, front to back so I don't know if that was differences between the 3 production plants.

I talked to Nate at Thoroughbred GT and he said that when installing the floor pans in early mustangs, the measurements were a little different depending on the assembly plant.

So I leveled up the jig moutning locations and checked them with a spirit level and a laser lavel, then mounted the car on the jig.
although the jig is on wheels, I lock the wheels and do not move it until the major frame work is complete and my panels are lining up.

Here are a few photos.









Last edited by rkmiller73 on Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:54 am; edited 1 time in total

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boofhead
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Nice set up. Looking forward to reading about this build.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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Pinto-Pete
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boofhead wrote
Nice set up. Looking forward to reading about this build.

+ 1.. 🍿


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eaturbo_39
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Location: Mt isa qld

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hey mate did you make that jig yourself or buy it and who thru might see if I can get one over here


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ozbilt
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Location: Now at the Duggo Ranch

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eaturbo_39 wrote
hey mate did you make that jig yourself or buy it and who thru might see if I can get one over here


It is home made. I have one here as I built it in the US (pic below with "noback" on it). Mike (mikes68) built one also, not hard to do.



Kerry

It is easier to get older than it it is to get wiser

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rkmiller73
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Hey,

This jig is one I bought a few years back from accessable systems.

The website is here: www.accessiblesystems....wobeam.php

It is adjustable to any type of vehicle you want to put on it.

I did my jeep and another mustang on it a few years ago.


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ozbilt
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rkmiller73 wrote
Hey,

This jig is one I bought a few years back from accessable systems.

The website is here: www.accessiblesystems....wobeam.php

It is adjustable to any type of vehicle you want to put on it.

I did my jeep and another mustang on it a few years ago.


Good to know ..... Laughing

& there I was thinking you must have had an "engineering" background .... Embarrassed

Anyway, keep up with the pics & posts as the build will be interesting as you are going about it the right way ... Like


Kerry

It is easier to get older than it it is to get wiser

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Shaunp
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$850 not bad value I don't reckon, I wouldn't make one for that.


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rkmiller73
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OK so last day of vacation today so I worked some more on the project X.

I made a jig point to the lower door hinge mount to stabilize the cowl section for work in that area.

I also took some 1inch square tubing and put in lateral stabilzers low close to the floor so that when I take out the floor it will help to keep some rigidity.

Doesn't sound like much, but with all the running around I had to do this morning, half the day was a bust.

I looked into making one of these jigs and really it is not rocket science, but for the price I could not do it better or cheaper considering the time and running around getting the parts.

Why reinvent the wheel? I just modify stuff as needed for the project.





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Shaunp
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I agree


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rkmiller73
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I had to work most of the weekend, but I spent some time in the shop Saturday night.

This took about 4.5 hours with a spot weld drill bit, drill, a 3 lb hammer and a very thin hardened steel masonary chisel.

Now the floor is out and I cleaned up the passenger side front frame extension. I need to get the torque box off the driver side and take off what is left of the driver side frame extension.

Due to limited shop space down here in Texas, I moved the jig for now. I have everything marked on the jig and on the floor to put it back exactly where it was and then I will recheck it before I put the car back on it.

I am debating on if I should take out the inner rocker panel piece - an new inner piece is on the new floor pan assembly. I cut a small hole in the fender well at the back of the rocker to look inside and it doesn't look too bad, but there is a lot of debris still in there.





Last edited by rkmiller73 on Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:57 am; edited 1 time in total

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Nuts
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Location: Can someone send me some of that "Clean" coal for my furnace. My wood has frozen..

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4 1/2 hours??? Jeez Rick that would take a mear mortal all bloody day.. Well done.


My Motto - Don't get Caught! If you do, Blame Someone Else!

MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

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soc123_au
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4.5 hours? You want a job?


Album Link Below.

s608.photobucket.com/p...s_Prestige

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nassi
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I'm impressed. Like


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ozbilt
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nassi wrote
I'm impressed. Like


+ 1

Do not throw anything away until the job is finished. There are lots of little brackets on that floor section you just cut out that you will need. I also keep the seat belt plates that are welded to the floor. That can fit in the roof rails if you want to fit inertia reel seat belts later on.


Kerry

It is easier to get older than it it is to get wiser

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