Just thought id play around with cutting out slices from a couple of spare EB rear disc brackets to enable them to be fiited over the axle ends without pulling of the bearings. The gap needs to be 52mm wide.
2 options , one on the right , the better option , using the 4 mounting holes and all the existing holes for the backing plate. The other on the left doing away with the ABS sensor hole and using 3 mounting points. I placed bolts into the unused holes to save confusion .
Dont forget to redrill the mounting holes first and that they are drilled as a LEFT and RIGHT set , otherwise one will be angled up and the other down LOL!
ShaunP is currently seeking advice from an engineer for the conversion.
Scott I'm not sure but to me I think the cut leaving the 3 bolt holes may be better, as you have more meat around the caliper slide, away I guess it's no trouble to puch the bearings off, you'll only ever do it once, maybe it's best to just leave it. I got given an EL (I think) wagon yeaterday, so looks like I've got a set for free to play with.
Yeah thats why im keeping it complete , as you said , only have to do it once and a good oportunity for preventative maintanence by replacing the bearings. Im also going to add that Diff housing flange i cut off for a little extra strength , there is plenty of stud left to include this. Not really neccessary but i like overkill.
Thanks for sharing, This forum is great, apart from a few small hiccups, everyone is generous with their knowledge and little tricks, thanks for letting us learn with you guys:(
Ditto!! I learn alot from the forum and appreciate others input. Apart from previously being a Toyota mechanic mid 80s -late 90s , most of my limited knowledge is the old falcons XL -XY .
Even though admired for near 25 years , Mustangs are all new to me as they were finacially out of reach untill now.
Ok, forget all of my previous rear disc brake conversion.: Im starting again now that it is all sorted. I have 2 options i have come up with. One requires a small amount of machining, the other needs to cut up your old drum brake backing plate.
One drawback, particually with 65-66 which doesnt have much room under the rear wheel well , is that you increase the overall axle width by 6mm each side because of the rotor width, but it would be the same with the XF conversion.
Both need bits and pieces from a disc brake donor diff assembly.
Shopping list: (1) Diff assembly (centre is not needed)
(2) 8 x high tensile 3/8 x 11/2 UNF bolts and nylock type nuts or similar.
(3) 2 x Centric hub rings , to centralise the larger centre EB disc rotor onto the smaller mustang hub centre. Order these through wheel suppliers.
1:AS per previous posts , disassemble the drum brakes and redrill the EB calliper bracket. Do Not enlarge the centre hub hole as previously posted.
2: cut the stepped flanges off the donor diff housing, these will be the shim spacers needed, aswell as the bracket centre locaters.
Remove the longer wheel studs from the EB axle by putting a nut on and hitting with a hammer and then press into the mustang axle. ï¿½Note the difference in the distance between the bearing and the axle ends on the EB and mustangs axlesï¿½ , this is why we need the spacer.
This is from where you can use one of the two options, machining or backing plate cut up.
Ideally you need 6mm between the disc rotor and calliper bracket as a standard EB setup. The machining option (A) gives you approx 5mm. The other option (B) 4mm which still lets you fit new pads with only about 1.5mm left on the calliper movement which should be ok, pictured below.
To take up the 3mm bearing protrusion from the dff housing, you need to make a 3mm shim, the easiest but proberbly not the most desired way is to cut up the old mustang drum backing plate. I used a suitable one from a XR-XY falcon, maybe other models. This can be fitted directly to the diff flange with the original thin paper gaskets or gasket silicone, because the bearing can slide through it.
Next you need the bearing retainer from the EB axle, the original mustang one is not suitable for this application and grind flat the rectangular raised section (oil drain groove).
Grind away the axle 2 casting protrusions as in option (A) above.
You are now ready for reassembly.
Order of assembly onto the axle is
(1) Flange cut from diff housing stepped section facing to axle splines, fits into calliper bracket centre.
(2) Calliper bracket Check its facing the right way and is the correct side of car.
(3) EB bearing retainer raised side fits inside the calliper bracket centre aswell towards the wheel side.
(4) Fit new bearing and retainer.
(5) Axle ready to fit back into diff housing using the new longer bolts.
As you can see , I still need to fit a Centric Hub Ring to the centre of the rotor. I havent got one yet because I expect to get 2 extra with my new rims , as I have the larger XD front disc hubs on the front. Also I will use the EB handbrake cable modified to fit my setup.
Now you just need to make sure your front/rear bias is correct.
Minor issue, a variable proportioning valve will solve any problems as with any disc conversion . As i said before i did drive the car around the block with the first setup using my Fairlane booster and m/cyl about 5mths ago, and tested under heavy braking. It pulled up very well but i dont think i locked up the brakes to see if the front locked up first from what i remember, but it did make my stomach turn.
Have you got a pic of where you mounted the proportioning valve, just fitted SSBC kit to my 67 and I'm not sure where I should mount the valve.
Anywhere on the line to the rear brakes , firewall area is good where you can get to it easy.
I havent mounted one yet , i dont know if i even need one untill i finish my build , and do my final tests. My master cyl is EB NC the right one for those brakes although they are proberly heavier cars. I have XD front discs and calipers with a 60.3 mm piston bore , the NC failane has the same bore. Rear calipers on a XD are 49.2mm bore EB NC are 40.45mm. M/Cyl on XD is 25.4 bore , EB NC m/cyl dual circuit bore's are front 23..81mm, rear 31.75mm. Does anyone know what the XF specs are? i dont have a manual. BTW the EB m/cyl has same bolt pattern as a mustang.
XB & XC had rear discs as well, I'm pretty sure the XB GT just used the normal XB master. I can't remember if the rears on B & C rears are like and XD.
I have a XA-XB and Fairlane manual ,front is 60.3mm , back 49.21 , m/cyl 25.4 , they have the dfferential valve fitted on the rh shock tower and intergrated with the pressure control valve which balances the braking between front and rear. Inertia valve from memory which isnt that reliable. Memory im talking about not the valve. :-
Good job mate,you are brave to be going with black- it will be gorgeous when its done and well worth the time you have put in:f!
wow! a lot of hidden nasties in that car, good patch work by you. its so hard to find a mustang that hasnt got rust in the typical places, and the ones that dont have the rust showing usually have bad cover ups like you have found. I usually buy the ones with the rust showing so i dont have to be disappointed when i remove all the paint and find bog and bad repair (bloody hillbillies!)
Im with you on rather buying one unpainted and rusty , but this one was already landed in oz and i proberbly would not of bothered to fork out the $ and look for one otherwise. I picked 80% of the damage , just not the rear pillar and inner front section of door, but expected more under the fender lower sill area and was pleasantly suprised to find it clean. All up im happy with what i got and really if you look at the pics from when i got it , i could of just licenced as it was and driven it for 5 years before restoring , because the paint was acceptible just not me.
Got a bit more work done , but not as much as i would have liked. Last week turned the car around and stripped the LHS down to metal . I knew the lower quarter was rusted , but didnt know what lurked beneath the paint , although i wasnt too worried because i will have a load of parts including a new lh Quarter and fender arriving soon from the US thanks again to Ken. After 5 hours air sanding the 5 layers of paint off , it turns out not as bad as the RHS and i only need to replace the lower section and knock out a small dent in the front recessed section.
I like the indicator in the centre, but it will be harder to make it work, as you will need to fit 2 more bulbs in the housing, and 2 shields, rather than the indicator in the left, which only requires i more bulb, and 1 shield. Using bulbs, you will need to keep them as far away from the lens as possible, as the heat from tails or brakes can cause hot spots in the lens.
The extra bulbs and dividers are no prob as i have the full fairlane wiring which has the 2 tail stop, and indicator set up . Its just a case of drilling the two outers holes in the back of the housing and using the cooler led globes or ill weld on a extension tube on the housing for the globes to sit in.
I like them with 3 Red bars really, I'm just going to run combined rev/indicator lights on my car.
Shaunp , if i was keeping the car standard i also would go for incorporating the indicator reverse lights , and keeping the tail lights all red. But my fairlane wiring harness makes me want to do it different . I still wont know how i am going to have the lights till the whole car is painted and im putting it back together , i may even go all clear . Pretty much just playing around and making it up as i am going along atm, which is the plus when you do the work yourself . ill keep on trying things out untill i get the desired results.
Scott you are doing some really nice work over there. If you ever move over to Gods Country (Sydney) I could probably find some work for you. Nice to see something a little different, I am a big fan of later running gear in early cars.
Thanks Steve! I really appreciate all the supporting comments from everyone on here , and to get one from someone with your standard of work really takes the cake. In my 42 years of life i have lived in the same area ,and only moved 3 times including from my parents home , so i dont like your chances of getting me over there LOL!
A bit of an update , i have taken care of my cold air intake under my lh fender . Spent 3hrs running around town trying to find a 70mm tight 90 mandrel bend with no success , so went to plan B . Cut the stainless steel exhaust stack off my truck wreck i have , grabbed my arc welder with some old stainless rods i have had forever , and in 1/2hr had made what i was after. Found later on i had leftover roll off stainless mig wire i had picked up somewhere which would of made it alot easier. : I have delayed this for quite a while trying to decide if i should modify the apron to match the recessed battery tray on the other side so i can get to the filter easier or put it under the fender which is a bit harder to access but not so hard for me because i have a hoist. Anyway i searched around all of my crap and came back to a fairlane component once again. It is the ABS brake modual cover that sits under the fender. With a bit of heat on the plastic and an aluminium flywire frame i manipulation into shape i came up with what i was after. It is fitted and removed easily with one wing nut in the engine bay apron and a plastic clip at the top which was already on the cover. With the fender in place it will suck the air in from behind the Bumper apron area , or i may go one step further and put flutes behind the headlight which has more space than the rhs with a wind deflecter behind the grill next to the radiator.
While i was working on that side , i striped down the suspension wire brushed the area primed and repainted ready for underbody deadner.
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