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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Scarlet > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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gbx78
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soc123_au wrote
Found it Obviously the costings are related to the car this guy was looking at building. Some of the boxes on yours may already be ticked.

Honestly, saying you want a cheap price but top quality is ridiculous. It doesnt work that way. Everyone deserves a fair price but I am not aware of too many panel shops that work for free. Dont take my word for it, do a a search on this forum & www.mustang.org.au/forum/ & check what happens when a project of this magnitude gets done on the cheap. After doing that make your own decision & by all means if you manage to do it on the cheap with a good result come & give me a big "I told you so" That challenge has been thrown out there before & I am still waiting for anyone to pull it off.

I am not trying to put you off or sound like an ass, but I have had this discussion more times than I care to count. Also if you do go ahead & need any advice etc I am more than happy to help.

Basic cost break down.

Decent Fastback to start with (in your case 35k)

Quality E body kit allow 6.5k

Panel bond to glue E kit $800.00 (you can do it cheaper with Eurathane but I personaly wouldnt)

E light kit with 67 shelby tailamps 2k add for LED globes etc

Fabricate brackets for light kit about 6 hours (x that by the hourly rate of whoever does it) The light bars that come with the kit do the big lower spotlamps only. You make the rest yourself.

Mach 1 fuel filler & accesories $400ish add about 4 hours to fit the recess in the qtr panel & modify the inner bracing to make it work. add for custom filler neck (the ebay ones are rubbish)

Fit E fibreglass kit 60-80 hours

fix any other issues in the body - could be anything

Paint 20k for anything decent

dissassemble & reassemble the car, time will vary depending on a number of factors but allow 80-100 hours & up

New rubbers, weatherstripping & miscelanious crap 10k (you would be surprised how quick this stuff adds up)

Engine & Transmission - depends on how nuts you want to go

Suspension/Brakes - see engine/trans

Diff - again depends what you start with & what you want

New tailshaft & universals $800.00

Wheels/Tyres- whatever floats your boat

Wiring 3k

Exhaust 2k & up

Steering 1k & up

Seats & retrim 10k for anything decent (we are talking an E car not a standard trim job)

Deluxe alloy dash facias & bezels, Trick guages etc 2k & up

That is just a basic rundown & it really depends what you want out of it. If you start with a car that is already mechanicaly sound & fits what you want then you can save a packet. also the better the body is the cheaper it will be. It will need a repaint regardless by the time you do the E kit but if its already straight & rust free it is much more straight forward.

There will be other expenses as well, new glass & things like that as well. They are pretty much a very hungry money eating monster.


Link to to complete thread www.mustang.org.au/for...#pid148326


hey mate .. ok i should clarify, i used the wrong term .. i didnt mean "cheap" more so "reasonable" quotes. I totally understand the hours that go into the body and paint etc.. and yes exepecting in the 20K mark etc. i just meant reasonible and quality. As ive had some out of this world quotes and some more reasonable etc..

Yes i can see how it adds up .. ive been researching for a year and even though you think you have everything covered im sure as others say .. double it .. its all good. I do have a lot of those boxes ticked and really i guess what i want to do is not a real eleanor. the only thing is the body kit .. the rest will be just standard and use whatever ive got soo far like running gear, steering, suspension as its all been rebuilt, replaced, upgraded. its no big block Sad but should do the trick to just get out there and drive.

Im sure ill rack up the posts on this forum hahaha with all my dumbass questions etc.. but im looking foward to it. People said i wouldnt do it and i wont finish it .. so i set out to prove them wrong.. EVEN if its just standard but a E body kit.. ps i dont intend on doing pepper grey etc.. i believe thats for a true E car and being mine aint .. ill do something else..


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soc123_au
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No problem, I have no dramas with people wanting a fair price as thats how it should be. I see red though when I see the word cheap & quality used in the same sentence.

Have a look through my photobucket albums, all the albums with Bas in the title relate to an E build we did. It is appearance wise a pretty accurate clone. The Hellanor album is my car, its more of a tribute than a clone it is more in line with what you are going for I think. Its not finished yet though....BTW its an S Code Cheer


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s608.photobucket.com/p...s_Prestige

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gbx78
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soc123_au wrote
No problem, I have no dramas with people wanting a fair price as thats how it should be. I see red though when I see the word cheap & quality used in the same sentence.

Have a look through my photobucket albums, all the albums with Bas in the title relate to an E build we did. It is appearance wise a pretty accurate clone. The Hellanor album is my car, its more of a tribute than a clone it is more in line with what you are going for I think. Its not finished yet though....BTW its an S Code Cheer


Yeah ive been known to use the wrong words Very Happy

Ive seen your albums before, when i saw hellanor i remembered i must of clicked on a link somewhere etc.. and im pretty sure ive seen st marys smash repairs mentioned somewhere before, probably from this forum.

S code? Sad *blocks ears* la la la la la .. its all good. as long as it looks good from the outside im not too worried anymore Very Happy


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soc123_au
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Small blocks are good anyway, take up less space cheaper to get bits for & much easier to find engine builders that know what to do with them. If I had my time again I honestly dont know if I would bother with the BB. To much $$ tied up in it to back out now though.

I am looking forward to seeing some more pics of your car & hearing more about your plans. When is it arriving?


Album Link Below.

s608.photobucket.com/p...s_Prestige

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gbx78
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soc123_au wrote
Small blocks are good anyway, take up less space cheaper to get bits for & much easier to find engine builders that know what to do with them. If I had my time again I honestly dont know if I would bother with the BB. To much $$ tied up in it to back out now though.

I am looking forward to seeing some more pics of your car & hearing more about your plans. When is it arriving?


Hi, i love yours and forum members enthusiam over newbies with new builds etc.. its very welcoming and very supportive. Its great and well received.

I expect it to arrive hopefully within the next month just waiting on approvals and all that paper work (im not doing my friend is handling all that) so its just a waiting game. Im not sure what customs and all that stuff is like regarding time.

It doesnt look much at the moment but i was hoping to do whatever it takes to register it so i can just drive it locally in the streets to see if there are any quirks that need attention etc.. or if its good to go and i can start stripping the engine bay etc.. so i can have it blasted. Quikstrip was recommended to me which is near me and i spoke to Greg the owner and he seems like a nice guy and showed me what they do and showed me what not to do and not to cut corners like he showed me one guy painted and did everything yet the floors were rusted out and needed fixing (he didnt pay to have the entire car blasted so didnt know where rust was.. so he was helpfull.

he said he'd prefer if i gave him a rolling shell but im not too sure if i want to remove the rack and pinion and suspension and all that as im concerned when i bolt it all back it may not fit right or drive right because something isnt alligned etc.. he said that just means he cant get into the guards etc.. but he was happy to come over being local and give me advise as to what i would need to strip for him to do the job properly (talking about the car here :D)

Im very excited. a little nervous about how it looks now, but i think once its all etch primed and metal aligned it will look more like a project rather than a frankenstein.

Apparently the engine is from a later model mustang as is the gearbox and both have been rebuilt.. i dont know if to stock or worked a little. Not concerned either way. Has headers and new dual exhaust out to the back of the car.. however im wondering if i can retain the exhaust and modify the pipes to come out the side skirts with the kit.. that way i dont have to fork out for a new exhaust.

also i wonder.. all these hours spent on fitting a kit .. dont they have to take them off to paint them? im not sure i understand what the steps are there.. or are they painted while on the car and in which case how do you rub back between nooks and crannys etc?

anyway im not sure if im suppose to ask these questions in this thread or if i should ask as a generic question in the tech section or not.


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soc123_au
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This is your thread so you can ask whatever you like in here. The bolt on parts of the kit are
Bonnet
Front upper apron
Front lower apron
Bootlid
Left & Right Qtr panel extensions
Rear bumper

The other pieces are all glued on & then moulded into the body.
4 flares
Left & right sill skirts
left & right upper qtr scoops
left & right lower qtr scoops
Tailamp panel

Lots of cars have the qtr extensions & the front upper & lower aprons moulded as well. Personaly I think that is a shit way of doing it & can cause problems later if you need to remove anything.

The body needs to be painted properly where it is covered by the moulded pieces before gluing them on. Primer is not sufficiant as it is pourus. basicly fitting the kit is a nightmare, massive amount of work to make it look good & last.


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S[_]SPECT
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Thread jacking is what we do best here anyways.. so take this thread where ever you like...

BTW, If you are gonna take photos of your Mustang with your iPhone 3GS.. you should either turn off location services.. or clean the photos of metadata before posting online... Unless of course you want every Tom, Dick and Harry to know exactly where you are parking your car?


Cheers,
Birchy...
Dodgy Bros. Customs

Suspect 67 - www.mustangtech.com.au.../t=52.html

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gbx78
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soc123_au wrote
This is your thread so you can ask whatever you like in here. The bolt on parts of the kit are
Bonnet
Front upper apron
Front lower apron
Bootlid
Left & Right Qtr panel extensions
Rear bumper

The other pieces are all glued on & then moulded into the body.
4 flares
Left & right sill skirts
left & right upper qtr scoops
left & right lower qtr scoops
Tailamp panel

Lots of cars have the qtr extensions & the front upper & lower aprons moulded as well. Personaly I think that is a shit way of doing it & can cause problems later if you need to remove anything.

The body needs to be painted properly where it is covered by the moulded pieces before gluing them on. Primer is not sufficiant as it is pourus. basicly fitting the kit is a nightmare, massive amount of work to make it look good & last.


thanks for clearing that


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gbx78
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S[_ wrote
SPECT"]Thread jacking is what we do best here anyways.. so take this thread where ever you like...

BTW, If you are gonna take photos of your Mustang with your iPhone 3GS.. you should either turn off location services.. or clean the photos of metadata before posting online... Unless of course you want every Tom, Dick and Harry to know exactly where you are parking your car?


cheeky bugger!!! .. your right i didnt even think of that and im in IT Razz ill remove them to avoid peering eyes while i sleep Very Happy

but good point and thanks for letting me know.


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gbx78
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soc123_au wrote
This is your thread so you can ask whatever you like in here. The bolt on parts of the kit are
Bonnet
Front upper apron
Front lower apron
Bootlid
Left & Right Qtr panel extensions
Rear bumper

The other pieces are all glued on & then moulded into the body.
4 flares
Left & right sill skirts
left & right upper qtr scoops
left & right lower qtr scoops
Tailamp panel

Lots of cars have the qtr extensions & the front upper & lower aprons moulded as well. Personaly I think that is a shit way of doing it & can cause problems later if you need to remove anything.

The body needs to be painted properly where it is covered by the moulded pieces before gluing them on. Primer is not sufficiant as it is pourus. basicly fitting the kit is a nightmare, massive amount of work to make it look good & last.


my neighbor is a panelbeater, generation upon generation and yeah he said the same about 20K for a decent paintjob to look like new. But i wonder how much per hour someone charges to fit the bodykit and align panels etc.. i would think someone who is more familiar with mustangs or done it before would do it better than someone who doesnt. 60-80 hours is what i expected.. the quikstrip guy that does the blasting and etch priming said they can align the car for $50 an hour and give it 3 or so days but i guess that depends on how good the car is already.. i assume if the rear is good then its just aligning doors and fenders.. not bonnet and boot as this will be replaced from the kit and aligning those will be part of fitting costs..

saying that and im sure this has been mentioned.. is a kit a kit is a kit .. everyone claims to know the best kit ie the better fitting kit.. where did you guys get your kits from.. my contact tells me they get the kits replicated at this fibreglass place in qld and it will set me back 4K.. he said they fit well.. and was the same one they used on their convertible wedding car.. it did look good but im no expert.


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jas24zzk
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The biggest difference in which kit a repairer prefers comes down to which i'll fitting parts he is happier to work with. Some guys don't mind shaving up a bonnet and bootlid, but expect the flares to fit perfect etc etc etc. There is a guy in vic who does a lovely bootlid, but his bonnets are junk. That being said, any of the fibreglass boys can pull a kit from the moulds too early.....then nothing matters.

Personally, when people come to me wanting to do an elenoar, I send them elsewhere, just not interested in that much headache without proper renumeration.

Working side pipes....hmm good luck with that. It can be done, but its a royal PITA, and your car will need to pass through engineers after we're done cutting away/modifying to make it work correctly. allow 5k just for this luxury.

Cheers
Jas


Jason Pigdon
Pigdon Automotive Services
Historic Smash Specialists
3/1 Burgess Road, Bayswater Nth, Vic.
(03) 9761-4801

PS: Forgive me for I was jilted by peterp

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gbx78
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jas24zzk wrote
The biggest difference in which kit a repairer prefers comes down to which i'll fitting parts he is happier to work with. Some guys don't mind shaving up a bonnet and bootlid, but expect the flares to fit perfect etc etc etc. There is a guy in vic who does a lovely bootlid, but his bonnets are junk. That being said, any of the fibreglass boys can pull a kit from the moulds too early.....then nothing matters.

Personally, when people come to me wanting to do an elenoar, I send them elsewhere, just not interested in that much headache without proper renumeration.

Working side pipes....hmm good luck with that. It can be done, but its a royal PITA, and your car will need to pass through engineers after we're done cutting away/modifying to make it work correctly. allow 5k just for this luxury.

Cheers
Jas


Serious for the exhaust?? the bolton exhaust kits (minus the headers) are under 1K and that includes the tips for the sideskirts etc from the US and my understanding in NSW is you dont need approval/engineers cert for registration/blueslip and all that if its behind the last opening window.. a few of the guys here never had that much cost for side pipes .. unless im missing something or perhaps they have done the mods on the side or something.. but clarification as to why it would cost that much would be good.


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jas24zzk
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All the kits I have seen, the sill panel/rocker has had to be cut away to allow the pipes access to the exit hole. This also involved removal/relocation of the front spring mounts. Then you gotta tool around with suspension, and the easiest way round that is a coil over set up. Some of the kits allow for the exhaust to pass under the sill and enter the side skirt from underneath, but it looks like crap when you stand back from the car


Jason Pigdon
Pigdon Automotive Services
Historic Smash Specialists
3/1 Burgess Road, Bayswater Nth, Vic.
(03) 9761-4801

PS: Forgive me for I was jilted by peterp

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jas24zzk
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The last kit I was involved with, we glassed the side skirts smooth, and the ower had a stainless diffuser made for a rear center exit. That looked trick.


Jason Pigdon
Pigdon Automotive Services
Historic Smash Specialists
3/1 Burgess Road, Bayswater Nth, Vic.
(03) 9761-4801

PS: Forgive me for I was jilted by peterp

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gbx78
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hmmmm ok ..i guess ill have to play that one by ear then. I might double check my friends convert. regarding the kit and exhaust and see how its configured and what was involved. cheers for the info


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