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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Project Lime A code. > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Shaunp
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Yeah if you use POR metal ready correctly, it leaves a zinc phosphate coating that holds them for a while. I spray it on scrub it with a scotch brite, wipe it of with water then dry it with a cloth, turns it blue, won't last forever but holds it from rusting for a bit. This panel had some surface rust on it, because the car has never been repainted, it has started to surface rust in places, factory paint is very thin.


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nassi
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OK, thanks for that.
cheers


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ozbilt
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Unusual to see a 67 door in such great condition. Make sure, that after painting, you get a lot of body wax in the front lower corner behind the reinforcement. That is where there will be some rust happening & the wax will encapsulate it.

Worth make a great body wax that is in a spray can & has a straw attachment that can get it in there for you.


Kerry

It is easier to get older than it it is to get wiser

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nassi
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ozbilt wrote
Unusual to see a 67 door in such great condition. Make sure, that after painting, you get a lot of body wax in the front lower corner behind the reinforcement. That is where there will be some rust happening & the wax will encapsulate it.

Worth make a great body wax that is in a spray can & has a straw attachment that can get it in there for you.


Yes it is good stuff, sticky as.


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Shaunp
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ozbilt wrote
Unusual to see a 67 door in such great condition. Make sure, that after painting, you get a lot of body wax in the front lower corner behind the reinforcement. That is where there will be some rust happening & the wax will encapsulate it.

Worth make a great body wax that is in a spray can & has a straw attachment that can get it in there for you.


Kerry most of the car is about that standard, gutters aside, It probably would have been a good car to restore to original, no one has ever touched it really, good Cali A code coupe with lotts options. But i don't want a totally original car.
LH front gaurd has some bog at the front rear of the extension, Think I'll have to unpick the front bit so I can get in to repair it, I'll try weld on stud dent puller first.
Think I have 4L of Valvoline Tectyle here, and i've got gun with a hose on it, I give the Disco a hit every few years to save it from the beach driving. I may flood the car with that Isotrol rustelack, think that's what its called, first to seal any rust then wax it.


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Shaunp
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Done a bit more, skimmed & etched up the LH door, rebuilt the hinges, swung it, still needs a tweak to get the gaps correct. I think it is back where it was when it left San Jose but I can get it a bit better.









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ozbilt
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When fitting the door Shaun, have the back of the door about 2 - 3 mm higher without the glass etc in there. When you completely fit up the door you will find it will sit level.


Kerry

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Shaunp
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Thanks Kerry I'll have to tilt it up then? Not lift the whole door , so it drops on the hinges a bit? just been working on it and have it about as good as it getts in the back edge gap, and style lines, had to twist it out at the bottom 1/2 a touch at the 1/4, just flexed it on a rubbing block, a few times and it came straight out. Also had to smack the top edge down a bit to meet the top edge of the 1/4.


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Ausjacko
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Hi Shaunp
I had to lift one of my doors after the regulator, glass etc. was installed as it had settled. Kerry's tip is, as usual, a beauty.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Shaunp
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Yeah all the stuff almost doubles the wieght I reckon, they are bloody heavy when all together that's for sure.


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ozbilt
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Shaunp wrote
Thanks Kerry I'll have to tilt it up then? Not lift the whole door , so it drops on the hinges a bit?


Exactly.

Once you have the door with great gaps & sitting where you want it (when assembled) loosen the top hinge to the pillar & have someone hold the door up a tad, then tighten.

Adjust the striker up for the moment so it will still close nice. Once assembled, after paint, you then move the striker down a touch & you will find the door will close like it should & gaps will be perfect.


Kerry

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ozbilt
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Ausjacko wrote
Hi Shaunp
I had to lift one of my doors after the regulator, glass etc. was installed as it had settled.


When I set that car up, I did it to that method. So can only assume the doors were taken off after I had it.


Kerry

It is easier to get older than it it is to get wiser

Last edited by ozbilt on Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:55 am; edited 1 time in total

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Shaunp
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I'll leave it for the moment Kerry, I'm working my way around the car, getting it all good, a panel at a time, so front LH guard is next. Once its all good, I intend to paint the underside and put it back on it's wheels, I'll do the final gaps then and lift the doors a touch. Really only fixing shopping dents that were just dent pulled and or wiped over in the 70's-80s, not much really. It will not take much work.


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ozbilt
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Yes, the time to lift the doors is just before paint.

I have the cars painted the same way Ford did.

Doors, trunk & rear lower valance all on & in place. Quarter extensions spaced off by 5mm (with washers or a nut) to the quarter panels.

All other panels painted separate.


Kerry

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Shaunp
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I was thinking of doing it that way, though I may do the jambs around the front of the doors, back of the guards then put the guards on etc, haven't decided yet.


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