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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Tim's 1968 J Code Hardtop > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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scott66stang
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tim_morrison82 wrote
thanks guys, I wasnt planning on doing the whole car with it, but I wouldnt say never.

I thought 20 was the lower end. I am on single phase.

I have seen scotts compressor and he was complaining it was a struggle to do anything on his car.

the guy who I bought it from used a 40lt compressor... would have lijed to have seen that try it.

where is the best place to get a foot pedal?


Nice pick ups Tim
Yep mine is a 30cfm blacat (chinese model) but that was struggling on long time use when sandblasting a car. It is ideal for the blast cabinet i have, i think you may be able to use the biggest single phase compressor which was 17cfm some time back when i was looking but would just have to be in smaller bursts with rest time.


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mert
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One thing where bigger is better is always true. Can't have too much air for a blasting cabinet. The unit should spec SCFM requirements, and it can depend on material and the type of nozzle you are using (size) in the cabinet.

Be sure to get a good quality air dryer, you do not want moisture in the mix...

Some info here.

www.mediablastauto.com...essors.asp


Too small and you will burn it up real fast.


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tim_morrison82
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cheers guys, will keep my eyes open for a decent one.


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xpconnor
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xpconnor wrote
Make sure you get one that actually produces the amount of air it says it does, not a cheap Chinese one. There is a voluntary code or similar that some of them sign up to and they have a tag on them to say they are up to standard. Maybe google it to find out more as it was a while ago when I was looking into it and I can't remember the specifics.

Also if you are only on 2 phase, as I am, you can only run up to about 2 or 2.2hp as that is all the power 2 phase can produce. There might be some that say they are 3hp and run on 2 phase but I found a website that did some of the math on 240 volts and 2 phase and you can't suck enough power to produce 3hp even if the motor has the capacity to do so. Again might be worth a google as it was a while ago so have forgotten the exact details.

I ended up using two compressors running in tandem to blast my car. One was meant to be 15cfm but was a cheap Chinese one and was hopeless by itself. Then I got a good Italian made one (can't remember the cfm) and running both together gave me fairly good results as I was able to maintain 80 to 100 psi.

Hope that helps a little.


Loopy Single phase is what I meant, not 2 phase. Too many Sunday arvo frothies Drink


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ozbilt
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For the blaster to work decently, you need the following ......

Compressor (already discussed)

Decent nozzle (carbide tip) & foot pedal

Extraction unit that pulls more air than you are introducing through the nozzle. The idea is that the cabinet is then in a vacuum, ideal for removing the dust & allowing you to see what you are blasting.

I have Sean's (BossKraft) old extraction unit as when I gave him the screw compressor I had (it pumps 125cfm) he had to double the size of the extraction unit. He also has the carbide nozzle & foot pedal (same as mine).


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tim_morrison82
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lucky I only paid 120 for the cabinet.


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hybrid
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I stick a vacuum cleaner in the side of mine. Works well enough for my little cabinet.


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scott66stang
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hybrid wrote
I stick a vacuum cleaner in the side of mine. Works well enough for my little cabinet.

Me too, an old vax does the job


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tim_morrison82
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any feedback on the choice of welder? I believe this is as big as you can go on 10amp. my intention is to use small wire with gas. its currently setup with 0.8. wire and gasless.

I have a practice car body at the moment, so will see if I can have a play around with the current setup and get it to work.

you guys would have been impressed with this guys attempt to show me it does work. thongs, shorts, tshirt, no safety gear, welding without a shield or goggles of any sort...


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ozbilt
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tim_morrison82 wrote

you guys would have been impressed with this guys attempt to show me it does work. thongs, shorts, tshirt, no safety gear, welding without a shield or goggles of any sort...


"Impressed" ? isn't that how it is done ? ..... Shrug


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tim_morrison82
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ozbilt wrote
tim_morrison82 wrote

you guys would have been impressed with this guys attempt to show me it does work. thongs, shorts, tshirt, no safety gear, welding without a shield or goggles of any sort...


"Impressed" ? isn't that how it is done ? ..... Shrug


you're right, my mistake. must have been advised incorrectly... im pretty sure he was supposed to dip his hand and the steel in water prior to using the force of pushing the steel down with his bare hand as a clamp... you attach the earth clamp to your big toe too dont you?


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Shaunp
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That little 130 CIG is actually not a bad welder, I've got one like it as a stand by and they are very portable. They weld fine on a car panels, .6 wire and Argo shield lite. They can actually take a bit of a flogging.


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Nuts
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I recently tried out a Unimig 175 portable unit for a friend and it cost $399 and performed brilliantly. It would probably fall down if you were welding really thick plate but for general workshop use it was really good value.


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scott66stang
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tim_morrison82 wrote
lucky I only paid 120 for the cabinet.

If you have ever had the pleasure of assembling one of these blasting cabinets, you will know you got the $120 value in labour alone. So many nuts and bolts Argh


Converting Rust to Something Drivable

66 Fastback Fairstang Project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
67 convertibuild project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
Thought Collecting Couch www.mustangtech.com.au...=1739.html
Caddy Wacked www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html

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Shaunp
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Nuts wrote
I recently tried out a Unimig 175 portable unit for a friend and it cost $399 and performed brilliantly. It would probably fall down if you were welding really thick plate but for general workshop use it was really good value.


A mate got a 180? unimig last week about the same $ fro Hare & forbes


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