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Mustang Technical Discussion > Pre 1973 > Valve seats hardened or not ? > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Valve seats hardened or not ? Reply to topic

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67fastysm
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how can i tell if the valve seats have been done , I have no Wall Bash idea
this is a pic of the head valve seat .
cheers shane



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Shaunp
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I 'd say not from the picture, costs about $25 per seat so $100 per head to supply and fit.


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67fastysm
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Thanks shaunp much appreciated !
cheers shane


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cage
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Agree with Shaun, you would see a ring around the chamber where the hardened seat would be installed and machined. Doesn't look like you have them Shane.


"The simple answer is, even if I have decided I still don't know what to do."

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67fastysm
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actually cage now that you say that , when i run my finger in the the hole (keep it clean ) i can feel a slight lip from that lighter colored ring which seems to have an outside edge will see if i can get a closer photo


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boofhead
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This example is not a ford engine just that it shows how obvious a hardened seat is once you know what you are looking for;



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Shaunp
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Shane they are just the iron of the head, you can see the dark burnt spots in them, you won't see that in a hard chilled iron or Stellate seat. What you are feeling is just the tool marks where they have set the seat height prior to cutting, and the mark below is the throat cut to blend them in a little.
You don't need to change the valves unless they are toast, they are hard enough, just the seats. They also seem to have coarse cut on the head face, this is not the best for head gasket sealing


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67fastysm
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yeah understand , some of the valves were knackered , so ordering a new set. its been rebuilt at sometime in its life as the pots are 40 thou over .
Have a place here that can do all what you are saying ,had them regrind the crank as it had some marks in it .
I think its had a pretty hard life, my plan is to clean it up do whats needed to ensure its right , have a mild cam for it get in and drive it.
then put together a nice donk .
thanks again for your help


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Shaunp
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I've got a mild Hydraulic in the box here if you want it 214/224 about 480 lift. Also some 289 closed chamber heads, with hard seats, 351 stainless valves, K line guides, porting is not finished, need converting to screw in studs and guide plates + some 2nd hand 1.7:1 Comp cams magnum roller tip rockers. Maybe worth considering.


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67fastysm
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thanks for the offer shaunp, man your shed or sheds must be full of gear! already have the cam was with all the boxes of stuff which came with the car.
its a comp cam 218/224 493 lift . So what i did was emailed comp cams and they matched up all the other parts .
So i have just been getting gear as i can afford it , just need rockers , push rods and valves .
what $ you want for the rockers as that and the valves were next to buy ?


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Shaunp
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Make me an offer, they haven't done much work from memory, they are the Comp cams Magnum Roller tip Chrome molly ones, 1.7 not 1.6 so they will give the cam more valve lift.

When you do the heads you can use the larger 351 Windsor valves, they are 100 Thou larger, the inlet seats will open up to that and then just blend the bowls to the seat, and radius the short turn a bit and you are changing the exhaust sets any way, so go straight to the 351s. If your current valves are ok you don't need to swap them for ULP, just the exhaust seats. The 351, units will give some extra flow. Lots go to Chev valves as they are larger again, but in a closed chamber 289 head, you don't get the benefit as they get shrouded by the chamber wall.

Got a new 570 & 670 avenger here as well if you need a carb. Probably some 2nd hand CDI's and maybe a Mallory dissy or 2. Maybe a new Hi-volume pump.


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cage
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He ended up buying my 570 street avenger a few weeks ago Shaun.


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