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Mustang Technical Discussion > Pre 1973 > Ignition/solenoid problem > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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gary70au
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Hi guys, wondering if i can get some advice on a problem with my 67 coupe.

It always turns over slowly initially as the starter may need work and i have decent compression. After the first slow turning it then usually spins fine and starts.

On two seperate occasions now i have gone to start it and missed the first time but when trying to crank it again it fires and starts to run when i turn the key back to off. When it does this it runs rough and manipulating the key does nothing.

The first time it did this it stopped after a short time, yesterday however, it ran for quite a while. As i manipulated the key the starter occasionally sounded like it tried to engage but of course just made the grinding noise.

As it is an automatic i couldn't stall the motor to stop it.

I didn't try again once it stopped.

When it first happened i thought it might be the ignition switch so i got a replacement which i haven't yet fitted.

I read somewhere today that the starter solenoid may be sticking.

Can anyone advise if it would be the ignition or the solenoid?

I am going to put the ignition switch in today but want to know if i need a new soleniod

Cheers

Gary


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moe
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try some of the suggestions here:

www.allfordmustangs.co...y-off.html


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gary70au
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Thanks moe, I will check it out


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nassi
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In my experience it is generally the solenoid. If it happens again, turn the key OFF and as quick as you can get around and whack the solenoid with something. If the solenoid is at fault it will generally free up and the engine will cut out.


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hybrid
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My solenoid has been sticking occassionally - its new.. must be a cheapy.


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nassi
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hybrid wrote
My solenoid has been sticking occassionally - its new.. must be a cheapy.


I have found with the new crap you need to open it up adjust the contacts so they make good surface contact if they only make a small area of contact they basically weld themself together.
A poor battery can also show similar symptoms.


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hybrid
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I'm not sure it's welding.. I only have to lightly tap it with a screwdriver and it releases.

Aren't they riveted together or something?


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nassi
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hybrid wrote
I'm not sure it's welding.. I only have to lightly tap it with a screwdriver and it releases.

Aren't they riveted together or something?


Welding is just my terminology, the two copper surfaces fuse together. Your right it is just a light tap required to release but adrenalin can get involved so it becomes a whack...


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Ausjacko
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I had a new solenoid in the grey car that turned out to be faulty. New is code for untested.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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nassi
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Ausjacko wrote
I had a new solenoid in the grey car that turned out to be faulty. New is code for untested.


That should be in the tech section I think. Like


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IGALOP
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I also had a new solenoid that I returned after a few days & finally got a good one. It seems there is a number of suspect ones on the market now.


Selling the Mustang story to all those who will listen!
There are many listening in Gippsland.

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Bosskraft
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I've spoken to Kevin Marti at length about this issue and he suggested that even the top of the line repop AUTOLITE ones, are internally not as well built as the originals. He has the engineering for the originals, where they actually specify the quality/make up of the copper contacts inside and the new ones are not of this standard and this is why they stick. Cheap knock off's, basically. I was told to buy the D3 MOTORCRAFT originals and take the point deduction in concours, without fear of them locking the starter motor to the flywheel while trying to start the car, or keep running on and do damage somewhere. I've also had a solenoid fry my wiring harness (while George Follmer was driving it, actually...perhaps it was because he was flogging it?...hmm), so it pays to put good gear in your car or possibly risk it burning to the ground.


Sean McDonagh
www.bosskraft.com
MCA Gold Card Judge

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trav68
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Supposedly the Standard Motor Products - Blue Streak series are the ducks nuts (made in USA). Funnily enough they cost 2.5 times the normal ones but you get what you pay for usually. Its blue so sticks out like dogs balls but works better than my old one but will have to leave my personal comments on reliability for a few more years......

I knew most repro ones were sketchy so did a quick interwebs search before I got my new one.

Available from summit etc too

www.partsgeek.com/cata...enoid.html

Trav.


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gary70au
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Thank you for all the info guys


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jas24zzk
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This may come as a surprise to some, but the same solenoid is used in aviation.
The cheap knock off's you buy under a certain brand name are JUNK! if you get it to work once, then thats considered value for money.

As Bosskraft says, forget the points....you need it to work!

The company to contact is Aircraft Spruce........... www.aircraftspruce.com.

The part you want is a starter solenoid for a Piper PA32-300. There are other types that use the same solenoid, but they don't spring as readily to mind. I have one of these in my bump wagon, and its been bullet proof!

Be prepared to spend, but only once. Its an aviation quality part, not made by the cheapest source.


Jason Pigdon
Pigdon Automotive Services
Historic Smash Specialists
3/1 Burgess Road, Bayswater Nth, Vic.
(03) 9761-4801

PS: Forgive me for I was jilted by peterp

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