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Q&A > General Tech Advice > Help installing new leaf springs on 68 - couple of questions > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Napes
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Heya - hoping for some answers to these questions:

Have the rear shocks out, U-Bolts cut off (they were rusted solid) and spring now just connected by front eye. That bolt is also seized (which I expected ). What I overlooked was replacement eye bolts.

[1] Is the correct 68 bolt 1/2" x 4 3/4" - do they need to be grade 8? UNC?
[2] Where could I get one of these in Melbourne quickly?
[3] Springs were just sitting on the spring clip plate - metal to metal. Shop manual has insulators(?) - do I need them? (pic below)

Thanks - have tomorrow as annual leave to hopefully finish this job off - any help on above appreciated.

cheers

(n)



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hybrid
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Not sure on the bolts, but if you want an insulator, you could just cut some reinforced rubber to the same size as the flat on the diff housing and drill/cut a hole for the pin on the springs.
I didn't put one on mine though.


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Nuts
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Your Mustang parts stockist should have the bolts as they are prone to rusting.


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MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

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Napes
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Thanks Hybrid - if you didn't I won't bother either Smile
Yep Nuts - have emailed blkpny - still have to cut through the existing bolt so that'll probably take a bit .
cheers
(n)


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donoauto
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Any bolt shop should have them(or engineering shop - if you don't know of any , call whoever does your mechanical work for you , they'll know where to send you). They will be UNC & if you have the old ones , look at how many strokes are on the head of the bolt - it'll either be 3 (Grade 5 i think) or 5 strokes (grade 8 I think). Just saw that info mentioned in a posting somewhere on here recently. I'm sure just normal hi-tensile (grade 5) will suffice but Kerry will steer us all straight.


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blkpny
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If you have a bit of power, never use the insulators between the diff and the leaf. If you have a Falcon, pull them out and put Mustang lower plates in.... They are bad news.


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Napes
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Cheers donoauto - I checked total fasteners - they have grade 8 UNC 1/2" x 5" on their website - only about 6mm longer and can't see clearance issues with that so will call them in the morning. Just wanted to be sure there wasn't something unusual about those bolts given where they are, and I've yet to pull/cut one out Smile

& good to know blkpny - thanks.


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moe
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There was a trick posted on the web a bunch of years ago about getting th eye bush bolts out


with the NUT on tight... stick your wrench on the head of the bolt.. and turn it.. you have to use a SIX point socket or six point wrench.. not a 12 point or an open end wrench...

what ... why...

with the nut on tight.. the inner sleeve is pinched between the brackets and held tight..

if you turn the bolt.. you break it free inside the sleeve.. you then have a MUCH easier time getting it out..


so think ... breaker bar... six point socket..


if you have damaged the threads on the bolt... you will have to carefully file the damage down.. and even more carefully start a threading die on the end to repair the threads...

if all else fails... cutting it out as described above...


There is another trick as well, involving making a cheap tool to pop them out. Still trying to find it...


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Napes
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Thanks Moe - will try that! Smile


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chopmgw
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Always amazes me moe, how u manage to find this shit on the web !


I smell oranges !

Michael

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moe
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Found it....

forums.vintage-mustang...ace-2.html


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Napes
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One side done Thumbs Up

Tried your trick Moe - even with breaker bar with about another 1/2m tube - nothing budged. Bolt was totally corroded to the bracket. In fact everything was corroded to everything.

Learnt the following:

[1] I should have stuck with the angle grinder - started with it, but then tried reciprocating saw (as I saw a lot of guys in US recommend them) - no good - ended with angle grinder again.
[2] be less gentle - should have just cut the old springs off from the start to give me room around front eye. And bashing stuff with a BFH works.
[3] Cut really straight with thin cut-off wheels - otherwise they explode and scare the shit out of you.
[4] Make sure you have ALL the parts before you start - driving about trying to find stuff last minute burns hours.

So tomorrow the other side - then tighten everything up when it's down on wheels.
Thanks a lot for all the help and tips - really appreciate it - love this forum!

(n)




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bages
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looks schmick! Cheers


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chopmgw
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Napes wrote

[4] Make sure you have ALL the parts before you start - driving about trying to find stuff last minute burns hours.

Learnt this one myself Argh


I smell oranges !

Michael

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moe
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Napes wrote

Tried your trick Moe - even with breaker bar with about another 1/2m tube - nothing budged. Bolt was totally corroded to the bracket. In fact everything was corroded to everything.


Did you attempt the solution in here?
forums.vintage-mustang...ace-2.html


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