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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Husky's 65 Restomod > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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gbx78
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Husky65 wrote
Thanks Kerry, a few guys in the states apparently blowtorch them, and they come off pretty easy 'apparently'. If this doesn't work I'll send you a pm.

gbx, I hope you're fittings aren't as tight as mine. Every goddamn bolt was torqued off the scales. Ended up snapping one and extracting it, broke 2 hex fittings and 2 allen keys. I had to use my impact gun to get a few of them off Head Bash I purchased my seals through superchargerrebuild. Apart from shipping their prices are ok, but I have a US forwarder so postage will be stuff all. Will come to about $80-90 bucks. Still crazy for 2 seals though.


I would think you'd have to be carefull with heat on the impeller and make sure you dont through its balance out of whack.. i don't much about it but interested to see..

Kerry can you use a press to remove a pressed on item? How would you typically remove a bearing from an rear axle as an example? Heat as well?

CBC locally can get the seals as they are a standard seal used in other applications. Im waiitng on a price from them. Ebay stores sell reputable brands for $7 + stupid $20-30 postage so comes close to superchargerrebuild. Im sure you also read that there are a couple substitute seals part nimbers 9838 9837 etc that will work the same but the lip on the rubber varies but is still used in these applications.

Can you do a write up when you do it??? With pics. .thats whats lacking on the US forms..im sure its easy but good to prep for it


'You can never test fire too many times.' - Hybrid

'You can never have too many gauges' -
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Husky65
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gbx78 wrote
Husky65 wrote
Thanks Kerry, a few guys in the states apparently blowtorch them, and they come off pretty easy 'apparently'. If this doesn't work I'll send you a pm.

gbx, I hope you're fittings aren't as tight as mine. Every goddamn bolt was torqued off the scales. Ended up snapping one and extracting it, broke 2 hex fittings and 2 allen keys. I had to use my impact gun to get a few of them off Head Bash I purchased my seals through superchargerrebuild. Apart from shipping their prices are ok, but I have a US forwarder so postage will be stuff all. Will come to about $80-90 bucks. Still crazy for 2 seals though.


I would think you'd have to be carefull with heat on the impeller and make sure you dont through its balance out of whack.. i don't much about it but interested to see..

Kerry can you use a press to remove a pressed on item? How would you typically remove a bearing from an rear axle as an example? Heat as well?

CBC locally can get the seals as they are a standard seal used in other applications. Im waiitng on a price from them. Ebay stores sell reputable brands for $7 + stupid $20-30 postage so comes close to superchargerrebuild. Im sure you also read that there are a couple substitute seals part nimbers 9838 9837 etc that will work the same but the lip on the rubber varies but is still used in these applications.

Can you do a write up when you do it??? With pics. .thats whats lacking on the US forms..im sure its easy but good to prep for it


I don't think heat is too bad on the impeller wheels. Pretty sure I saw pics of the paxton factory where they had them in ovens to heat them up.

Yup, so it was easy to find the front seal. Those part numbers you have are for the front seal. Same between gen 1 and gen 2. It's the rear seal that's hard to find, and the gen 1 and gen 2 had different rear seals due to shaft size I believe. I could not find ANY info regarding the part number of what the rebuilders in the states are using. They are obviously keeping it pretty quiet so they can still charge 60 bucks for it. So once the seals arrive, before I fit them I might measure them up and try to find something local, for future replacement.
They sell dual lip and single lip rear seals, however I just went with the single lip, as from what I know the second lip is to stop ingress of dirt etc, which isn't a big deal in the engine bay in my opinion.

I found a good write up with pics, I'll try and find the link to it.


Last edited by Husky65 on Sun Sep 24, 2017 10:07 am; edited 1 time in total

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Husky65
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This is the one I found that I found fantastic. It's for a 1000 but the rebuild process is the same. In fact, going by pictures only, it looks identical to mine so far.

www.s2ki.com/forums/s2...a-1107353/


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gbx78
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Fair enough. Yes good writeup hadnt seen that one.yeah I think gen 2 is 30mm or something for rear seal. I might just pull it out and take it to cbc to measure and find replacement part.. but curious to see what you get and if part numbers are in there.. and if not might pay to take it to bearing place first to source a part number for future reference. Im too busy driving my car to have it apart right now. So might not be until later.


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Husky65
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Well I hope I have the gen 1 rear shaft as that's what I ordered. I know they swapped to the gen 2 right around my part number on the supercharger, but as it came with the gen 1 divided volute, i took a gamble that it's a gen 1.


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Husky65
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Had an hour to play today, so sat down and did the launch control wiring. I wired up a relay which will act as a latching relay, which means my cluth and the launch button will need to be depressed to activate. How it works, is I have a momentary button mounted on the bezel. I then push this in and hold, push the clutch in(which releases the clutch switch), release the launch button and the relay should be latched on. Launch control will then de-activate once the clutch is fully released.
I also added a bright led warning light, which will light up once the launch is activated, and will turn off once the launch switches off.

Next I'll mount the clutch switch.







Last edited by Husky65 on Wed Sep 27, 2017 3:04 pm; edited 1 time in total

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hybrid
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That looks fancy!


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Husky65
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It only looks fancy because I didn't show you what the wiring looks on the back side.

Another plug for billet automotive buttons though, I have bought a few buttons/lights from them. Aussie company too. They will laser anything you want on the buttons


Last edited by Husky65 on Wed Sep 27, 2017 3:15 pm; edited 1 time in total

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hybrid
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Yeah I'm a big fan of that button.
I've just used horrible regular LEDs in mine. Perhaps I should switch over to nicer bezels.


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hybrid
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Hmmmm I like these:

billetautomotivebutton...ll-compact

Not all that cheap - $20 after etching. But they look great. I could have "KNOCK", "LOW METH", "METH ACTIVE" LEDs.
I need to measure to make sure they would fit. They are pretty big and require 16mm holes.


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Husky65
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Well both the ones I just added are 16mm for reference.

I think they are relatively cheap, in respect to that fact you end up with something that looks like more of a professional install. But i know what you saying.


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gbx78
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Ohh i do like that button. Thanks for sharing. Might look at some for my dash too.. maybe even replace the aid lockout one with an etched one..i do like my existing button that hybrid suggested though and was cheap

I still want dash inserts stainless or brushed alloy so might need to decide on buttons so they can cut the holes at same time


'You can never test fire too many times.' - Hybrid

'You can never have too many gauges' -
Boofhead

Last edited by gbx78 on Wed Sep 27, 2017 4:23 pm; edited 1 time in total

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nassi
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hybrid wrote
Hmmmm I like these:

billetautomotivebutton...ll-compact

Not all that cheap - $20 after etching. But they look great. I could have "KNOCK", "LOW METH", "METH ACTIVE" LEDs.
I need to measure to make sure they would fit. They are pretty big and require 16mm holes.


Mate if you have that illuminated on your dash next time your done for excessive playtime they are going to also charge you with trafficking and prostitution.


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Husky65
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Ok all wired up. Here is how it looks youtu.be/KVmvr7xln0g


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hybrid
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Works well.. they look pretty bright.

Nassi Laughing


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