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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Starter solenoids > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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lukep6470
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So the solenoid is going on yet another starter for me. For some reason I've always been hard on them no matter what the car.

I'm starting to get a collection of good Ford compatible starters with dud solenoids as it is only $50 more for a complete starter.

Does anyone else have this issue?


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hybrid
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Built-in solenoid or external?

Maybe it's getting too hot?


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lukep6470
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built in. The headers are ceramic coated but the downpipes aren't.


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lukep6470
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It always lets me down on a cold start and is OK hot.


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boofhead
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grounding problem - maybe


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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Nuts
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I agree with Boof. I'd review the engine to body earth and also the gauge of the battery and earth cables.


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lukep6470
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The Battery + is connected directly to the starter with Gauge 2 cable. The battery is grounded to a cylinder head with the same gauge. I do think it is the solenoid. This Mustangs starter motor history is:

The original clapper lunched itself (Windings came loose), it was replaced with a Repco starter that 12-18 months later started to act up. It was then replaced with one of those Procomp red starter motors which is the current one. It has actually had a pretty good innings as it is just over 2 years old.

I just don't think this aftermarket stuff (especially Procomp) is up to the task of a daily driver.

My new headers arrived today (1 5/8 mid length) so when I go to test fit them I will take the starter off and try pulling apart the solenoid.


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hybrid
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I had a cheap chinese shitter in mine too (DSM brand). It was terrible... ended up sounding like it was eating my flywheel.
So now I have a Bronco Bosch starter in mine.

Bosch part number BXA005N.
1.4KW FORD BRONCO 302 WINDSOR V8 85~96

Supercheap had them on ebay for $150, but they have gone up now.
Kerry managed to get a couple from Repco for $150 trade price.


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lukep6470
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Yeah the cranking sound is pretty harsh. I will look into the bosch unit thanks.


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lukep6470
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hybrid wrote
I had a cheap chinese shitter in mine too (DSM brand). It was terrible... ended up sounding like it was eating my flywheel.
So now I have a Bronco Bosch starter in mine.

Bosch part number BXA005N.
1.4KW FORD BRONCO 302 WINDSOR V8 85~96

Supercheap had them on ebay for $150, but they have gone up now.
Kerry managed to get a couple from Repco for $150 trade price.


You have the solenoid mounted on the fender correct?

I found the later model Bosch one which I need for $109

SR7517X

I'll have to check but I think this might be the one I bought from Repco a few years back.


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hybrid
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No, I don't have an external solenoid any more.
I've converted to the on board solenoid, which is what the bosch model I posted has.


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lukep6470
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So I thought I'd try an experiment this morning and put a multimeter across the cylinder head and the block. There is a very small voltage .03V differential during cranking. Considering I used a 30yo Fluke it may be higher than that.

Maybe that black coating on ARP head bolts is an insulator?

I will buy a strap to put between the heads and block and see if that helps.


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boofhead
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I often see 12v drop to 9v during cranking. Any thing lower than 9v is a worry. Drawing only 0.03v compared to block and head is nothing so good low resistance between them.

I run a neg battery cable down to the body then across to the engine as one cable.
I also put a strap from the back of a cylinder head to the body.
Just to make sure.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

Last edited by boofhead on Wed Jul 12, 2017 10:46 am; edited 4 times in total

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