The Battery + is connected directly to the starter with Gauge 2 cable. The battery is grounded to a cylinder head with the same gauge. I do think it is the solenoid. This Mustangs starter motor history is:
The original clapper lunched itself (Windings came loose), it was replaced with a Repco starter that 12-18 months later started to act up. It was then replaced with one of those Procomp red starter motors which is the current one. It has actually had a pretty good innings as it is just over 2 years old.
I just don't think this aftermarket stuff (especially Procomp) is up to the task of a daily driver.
My new headers arrived today (1 5/8 mid length) so when I go to test fit them I will take the starter off and try pulling apart the solenoid.
So I thought I'd try an experiment this morning and put a multimeter across the cylinder head and the block. There is a very small voltage .03V differential during cranking. Considering I used a 30yo Fluke it may be higher than that.
Maybe that black coating on ARP head bolts is an insulator?
I will buy a strap to put between the heads and block and see if that helps.
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