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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Edz 66 Convertible > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Edz66Vert
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I looked at the pictures of how it was meant to locate and tried the bracket and couldn't work out how to fit it so gave up, re-bent it and cut it, works great. The nutserts are lovely, soo easy.

This is the original brackets


This is how they are meant to mount



This is the radiator, I found when I tried to mount them in the above position they sat under the angled bit on the end whereas I wanted them under the straight bit so I modified them.



66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

Last edited by Edz66Vert on Tue Apr 04, 2017 12:10 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Edz66Vert
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Nuts wrote
It's a 69 Shifter. I have a correct 65-7 shifter here.

Thanks Daryl, can you bring it over when we play with the gearbox please? And thanks for checking out my steering box, gives me peace of mind to know it's good. Rang Revell Steering and told him I could have been killed and he said sh*t and told me the guy who did the job no longer worked there but he'd rev up the boys anyway. Now to just Loctite the nut on so it's a bit more secure when I reinstall the box.


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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boofhead
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Important bolts need to be correctly torqued. Lock tight helps at times.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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ozbilt
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Edz66Vert wrote

I re-used the nut clips from the 67 battery tray to attach the top bracket, now the bolt screws though and holds the bonnet catch into the front apron and then tightens into the bracket, no nut needed (and you can't get a spanner in there anyway).





The hole where you put the J nut normally has a captive nut in there. They were never a nut & bolt.

Agree with the nutserts, been using them for over 40 years (I found them via the aircraft industry while building race cars πŸ˜„ )


Kerry

It is easier to get older than it it is to get wiser

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Edz66Vert
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ozbilt wrote
Edz66Vert wrote

I re-used the nut clips from the 67 battery tray to attach the top bracket, now the bolt screws though and holds the bonnet catch into the front apron and then tightens into the bracket, no nut needed (and you can't get a spanner in there anyway).





The hole where you put the J nut normally has a captive nut in there. They were never a nut & bolt.

Agree with the nutserts, been using them for over 40 years (I found them via the aircraft industry while building race cars πŸ˜„ )

No captive nuts with my bracket so just used the leftover nut clip, the holes were too big to use nutserts. I used nutserts to re-bolt the under battery tray bracket tonight.

If you need to drill out spotwelds (like I did tonight_ you can drill them first with a 1/8 bit and then drill through halfway with an old 8 mm / 5/16 bit ground up as pictured. Cheaper than buying a spot welding drill.


I refitted the steering box tonight, took it out Sunday night, Daryl checked it and gave it back to me Monday afternoon. cleaned and painted it last night.


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

Last edited by Edz66Vert on Tue Apr 04, 2017 9:14 pm; edited 2 times in total

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Edz66Vert
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boofhead wrote
Important bolts need to be correctly torqued. Lock tight helps at times.

Is there a torque setting for the steering wheel nut? I've just loctited them and tightened them firmly as I can?


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

Last edited by Edz66Vert on Tue Apr 04, 2017 9:17 pm; edited 2 times in total

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ozbilt
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This is the nuts that "should" have been supplied with that bracket ....... πŸ˜„



Kerry

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boofhead
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I am sure there is but I would also just trighten it down very firmly.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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ozbilt
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Edz66Vert wrote
boofhead wrote
Important bolts need to be correctly torqued. Lock tight helps at times.

Is there a torque setting for the steering wheel nut? I've just loctited them and tightened them firmly as I can?


The steering wheel is on a tapered spline, 30lbs is all it needs.


Kerry

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nassi
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ozbilt wrote
Edz66Vert wrote
boofhead wrote
Important bolts need to be correctly torqued. Lock tight helps at times.

Is there a torque setting for the steering wheel nut? I've just loctited them and tightened them firmly as I can?


The steering wheel is on a tapered spline, 30lbs is all it needs.

Thank you for that , Iwas getting worried reading about torquing an loctite. I meant to respond earlier but got side tracked.


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boofhead
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Indeed - god as usual - shop manual states 25 - 35 lbs.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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nassi
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ozbilt wrote
Edz66Vert wrote

I re-used the nut clips from the 67 battery tray to attach the top bracket, now the bolt screws though and holds the bonnet catch into the front apron and then tightens into the bracket, no nut needed (and you can't get a spanner in there anyway).





The hole where you put the J nut normally has a captive nut in there. They were never a nut & bolt.

Agree with the nutserts, been using them for over 40 years (I found them via the aircraft industry while building race cars πŸ˜„ )



Interesting, I met them in the early eighties but not long after they were banned in the airforce (may have been a local engineering decision), and some time later they were dropped from a race team I had connection with.
I guess it all comes down to the application, but it was enough to make me use them as a last resort only.


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nassi
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boofhead wrote
Indeed - god as usual - shop manual states 25 - 35 lbs.


He reads faster than you Boofhead.....


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boofhead
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No I had to find it then read it - he knew it.

We will catch him out one day... Poke


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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nassi
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boofhead wrote
No I had to find it then read it - he knew it.

We will catch him out one day... Poke


I F in doubt it, but we all need goals.


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