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Other > Other Projects > Jacko's Project > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Ausjacko
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With those window rollers off I just needed to find a cost effective way to repair the rollers. A fair bit of interwebbing latter, a reply or two from US sellers and I think I have found what I need. One of the rollers already had the nylon roller off the ball end, telling me these things come off and therefore must go back on. To make them they would have had to press/hit the nylon wheel over the ball. Found a website on a US Chevelle forum referencing a guy who sells them, Mr GUSA. Grabbed the pdf file off the site and printed it out. Luckily, he has them life size in the pdf and matching them was easy. Now if he sends me them over as he has undertaken to do I will be in front by a long way.

Brother Steve sent a teaser photo of the bonnet in colour; looks great and now I am getting excited. As such and with a suggestion Laura wants the car for her wedding next year, I thought I would start on the motor. This now pails into the background given the recent colour update but...

The inlet on the motor





What this really means is clean the crap on the floor from away, under and around the motor. Did that and removed the inlet, water pump, dizzy and oil sender. The PO has used those weird ARP 12 point headed bolts to hold everything down; god bless him. Tried to find a three pronged harmonic balancer remover without luck. FiL did not have one nor does the guy down the street. Order one off ebay and it should be here on Wednesday.

Rotated the motor, after spacing out one of the mounting arms so it clears the support tube, only to realise I left oil in the sump. Oil is now mostly over the floor after exceeding the oil soaking capacity of the rags I had positioned underneath for the Γ’β‚¬Λœfew dropsÒ€ℒ that would come out. Note to others, check you have drained the oil from the sump AND removed the oil filter. Motor righted so oil can drain back into sump and WD40 sprayed around balancer pending removal.




'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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boofhead
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Motor porn.... excellent


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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MustangMedic
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Jacko,
The valley looks very clean, how long ago was the motor apart....do you know?
Cheers,
Ash


Cheers.
Medic
(Always work smarter not harder!!!)
67 C Code coupe
97 SN-95 Convertible

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Nuts
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Location: Can someone send me some of that "Clean" coal for my furnace. My wood has frozen..

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Don't wind him up Medic! He spent all Sunday at Marques in the Park talking to Holdon Owners. They must have smelt Mustang on him coz they ignored him!!!lol


My Motto - Don't get Caught! If you do, Blame Someone Else!

MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

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Ausjacko
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Not sure Medic but given the amount of assembly lube around the place I would suggest it was not that many miles ago but likely to be 5-8 years.

Now nuts, you did make a disclosure on Sunday that I will keep between us- until convenient not to.

Now, in talking to one of the other Holdon aficionados on things headers, he tells me about a auction person who is making them that actually fit- well no worse than anyone else's apparently. AND for a lot less than others to boot with thicker flange plates etc. Back home interwebbing and found the site. Yep, half price and a set is now on the way. Now, I actually attended the car show, got a free Honey milk AND saved money that I can use somewhere else- how cool!


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Ausjacko
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21 August 2016
Motor take two.
The balancer puller arrived on Wednesday and on Friday I whipped the balancer off. Pretty straightforward and will clean up well. A friend was telling me that Wagga hosts one of AustraliaÒ€ℒs leading harmonic balancer manufacturers, Precision Parts the makers of Powerbond. Their product is apparently world class- there you go.




The PO mentioned the engine had a sticky lifter and so I was keen to check this out. Loosened off the rockers and removed the push rods. I had pre-drilled a series of holes in a block of timber so I could keep the rods in their original spots. The inlet for No 6 piston was different to the others. This one had no ball on the ends, was slightly shorter and I suspect was the reason this cylinder was not running correctly.

With the push rods out I could use the magnet to remove the lifters. All came out really well and look to be in great nick; no overly concave bases or signs of wear.

With the balancer off and lifters out, I could remove the timing cover. Hold on, remember I was saying the PO used 12 point ARP fasteners, well he used them on the timing cover but I only have a single hex/6 pint ¼ socket. Fortunately, only one bolt was a little tricky but I got that off. Had to remove the sump to get the cover off.




With the sump off, I could see the PO did a bit of Γ’β‚¬ΛœtweakingÒ€ℒ. The two humped sump has a baffle swing Γ’β‚¬ΛœgateÒ€ℒ dividing the two ends of the sump. In effect, the gate stops oil moving away from the oil pick up under heavy acceleration. When the car settles, the oil returning to the rear hump builds up and pushes the gate open, thus allowing it to flow into the larger hump awaiting for pick-up; effectively a gated baffle.




The other thing he appears to have done is used a shit load of assembly lube OR the bearings have completely disintegrated and are now sitting as very fine mud in the bottom of the sump. I am hoping for option 1. Scraped the mud away with the oil (what had not covered my floor).

Sump off and timing cover removed to revealÒ€¦a double row timing chain. Love that!





But, the top sprocket was attached with three 5/16 12 point bolts. You guessed, it, my 5/16 sockets are all single hex and I was left to use my baby ring spanner. Leveraged on that little guy and they came free. PO had used Loctite to secure these in; like he should have. I did some searching and it appears to be a Comp Cams set with a Rolon chain. Photos taken to ensure correct reassembly. Just on that, you might notice the bottom sprocket has three key-way locations. Research has revealed these allow for TDC, 4deg advance or 4 deg retarded. Mine was on TDC. If you zoom in on the image below you can see the A and R adjacent to the other keyways.




Carefully slid the cam out of its home in the valley. Everything looks nice and even across the lobes with no signs of wear. Confirmed by my cam consultant, JBB. Unfortunately, there were no signs of part number or manufacturer either.

With the cam out, I was in a position to inspect bores and overall condition.




Compression was clearly still good (read springs are seating the valves well) as I was having trouble turning it over. Hold on, take the plugs out you goose to lose the compression. With the plugs out, the crank spun freely. Rotated it so that I could inspect each bore with the torch. They look good with some of the honing marks still visible. Pistons are alloy, consistent with the PO saying they were forged. The brand was not clear but the logo is a triangle with a what looks like a T inside it. Now identified as a DnB piston




Oil pump is a Melling high volume unit. The whole rotating assembly feels solid with no slop, play or odd movement/notchiness.

Went to Total Tools and picked up a ¼ and 5/16 12 point sockets; got the quarter in a deep ¼ drive as well.

Back home and it was bench grinder cleaning time. Cleaned up the inlet, timing gear and cover bolts together with the cross member bolts and rear quarter window ball studs.





Cleaned out the sump with kero and will strip this ready for reassembly with new gaskets etc. back on the motor. Still undecided on what to do for induction.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Pinto-Pete
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Air gap and an 800 carter.....


I'm Batman...

Toyo Spares.
97203177.
5/89-91 Canterbury rd Kilsyth vic.
Specialist Toyota Dismantlers.

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Ausjacko
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800; that is a bit big for my slight right foot. Any other thoughts?


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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nassi
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Ausjacko wrote
800; that is a bit big for my slight right foot. Any other thoughts?


Most people only listen to half what Pete says, so 400 should be good.


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Ausjacko
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28 August 2016
Well, induction looks to be sorted as I ordered the fuel control thingy from Fitech- sorry Pete. Holley has released a competitor for the Fitech model so will have to research which is better. Either way, I can use the command centre to deliver high pressure fuel and a return.

After checking with the brethren on the net, the pistons have been IDÒ€ℒed as DicknBalls due primarily on what the logo reminded Pete of.

Remember the odd pushrod, well did some more interwebbing to see if I could buy single ones; you can but postage is a killer. Went to Phillip Heads to see if they had a replacement. Ordered one in for $5; nice. They asked the brand and as he did so I rotated the rod and saw it was etched with TRW 48015; had not noticed this before. As luck would have it, TRW do not exist any more but was able to confirm they are 5/16th thick and 7.8inches long. Picked up the single rod the next day and after confirming it has ball ends like the rest.

Dropped out to Mark B at QIM. Some great old machines out there including a line borer, crank balancer, etc. Some really old and solid stuff in an old fashioned workshop with guys who know how to use the equipment. One showed me how to balance a crank. They only use SCAT cranks and told me they do not balance the cranks. Note to others, if you use a Scat crank is had to be balanced to whatever rod and piston combo you use. Think I will grab my gaskets and have the flywheel machined by Mark.

Used the death cone to clean the sump and balancer. Chased the threads in the balancer and have left it raw for the time being.




cleaned up to




Gave the sump a couple of coats of primer in the enviro booth.





'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Ausjacko
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Grabbed the rocker and timing covers and cleaned them. Timing cover came up well but the rockers not so much. Might get these stripped and paint them.




Back to the block and I scrapped off all signs of gaskets. While there I inspected the runners as I saw the tell tale signs of a die grinder. Sure enough, these suckers have received some attention




Not much of a deviation to get to the valve seat in there I tell you. Interweb shows these are the double-hump fuelie heads with 64cc chambers; great for their time.

Back to scrapping away the mating surfaces to ensure no old gaskets remain. In doing this I noticed that each side of the lower block had been stamped with H and G.



There were also deliberate square dots in pairs and I am not really sure what these are about; any clues?

I made sure the valley was completely covered in this whole process to minimise the chances of rubbish falling in. I used a scotchbrite pad and WD40 to give the surfaces a final clean and wipe over. To be on the safe side, I chased all the inlet and sump threads as well as cleaning the water galleries as best I could. Gave it a spray with WD40 and a wipe to get all the crap off, before a final wipe over with thinners and a scrub. Was careful only to get this stuff on the side and back of the block.

Back in the workroom, I cleaned the oil pressure sender and gave it a coat of clear.



And cleaned the fuel pump up similarly



To



'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Ausjacko
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Teaser
Steve, Marty and the team at St Marys Prestige Motor Body Repairs have been busy






OK, let's start a chant: "Bring her home, Bring her home, Bring her..."


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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chopmgw
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Nice jacko Like


I smell oranges !

Michael

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MustangMedic
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Looking good Jacko!
Cheers,
Ash


Cheers.
Medic
(Always work smarter not harder!!!)
67 C Code coupe
97 SN-95 Convertible

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cage
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That looks sweet Jacko, that Marty can really paint.


"The simple answer is, even if I have decided I still don't know what to do."

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