RH hinge needs to come up a touch on the inner fender skirt. You can "rotate" the hinge as there is a bit of play in the bolt slots (3/8" slots with a 5/16" bolt).
To see where you need to go with it, place a spacer (I know you have some .... ) between the rear of the hinge & the hood on the back bolt. If that works, then that is the amount you move the back of the hinge up.
Fitting a spacer on the rear of the hinge to the hood will lift the rear, fitting a spacer to the front of the hinge to the hood will lower it.
Jeff was on the money when he said change the springs to the original ones. On a few cars (like Scarlet) I fitted lightweight springs & then made a prop rod. The real issue is they are crap hinges with the repos being worse. I usually repair the original hinges, even sometimes fitting oversize pins to stop the slop.
It is easier to get older than it it is to get wiser
On the red car, one side of the hood closes slightly differently (in action) than the other. Perhaps it is one of those 'special' design features.
BTW, do you have a new shed from when I was over?
Yep that is what is happening. LH side is perfect but RH side drops and hits the cowl. If it didn't hit the cowl I wouldn't care but i am worried it will chip the paint. I will try the suggestions, try my old hinges and try another repro if need be. It is not really holding me up for paint as the panel can easily be lifted a 1/4" and the alignment will be fine. It is just nice to know it is correct before hand.
I've had a bit more time to play with the bonnet and after much mucking about it is now spot on. I initially tried lifting it the little it needed to come up and I fitted the original spring to the repro hinge to see if that would alter the way in which it was opening. I was optimistic this would work as when comparing the repro spring beside the orginal you could see they were different lengths, but unfortunately the bonnet was still hitting the cowl when you opened it.
You can see in the photo the repro is longer but when I counted the coils the repro had less 13 and the original 14. Didn't bother working out which was stronger.
My next move was to return the original spring to the orginal hinge and put it back on the car in place of the repro. Not too dificult if you have an extra set of hands to hold the bonnet but I was solo so it involved holding the bonnet open with my head as I tried to swap the hinges over. I managed to accomplish this fairly efficiently but of course when I shut the lid I had completely destroyed my alignment. Thats OK just realign and all should be good.... Trouble was no matter what I tried I just couldn't get it quite right. At this point I decided to compare the remaining original hinge on the work bench to the repro one I had just removed from the car and what do you know the repro hinge is actually a little longer than the original. I am sure this is something you can work around but considering the bonnet was fitting well before I had the odd couple hinges on I decided I would put the other original hinge on and see what happens. Again no extra hands and this time I managed to drop two bolts and lose the end off the socket whilst the bonnet was delicately resting on my head. Anyway i managed to get the remaining bolts in finger tight enabling me to retrieve the socket and the bolts which of course had rolled to the other side of the shed and under a cobweb infested table. (Insert appropriate curse words here). Bolts and socket in hand I finished securing the bonnet and began realigning the hole thing again. This time though we were on a winner.
And more importantly now when you open the bonnet it doesn't hit the cowl.
Another thing i did notice whilst I had the bonnet delicately resting on my head was the rubber boot on one of my tie rods has already cracked with the car sitting in the shed out of the weather for all of 6-8 months. I think some greases can effect certain rubber materials so maybe that has something to do with it but i thought this was pretty shit. Not sure if it becomes a problem for roadworthy or not? but won't worry about it now as any replacments will probably do the same again. Beginning to see how people become frustrated with the repro parts.
Next update will hopefully be the car going into some primer
"The Mustang is full of Awesome"
Last edited by xpconnor on Sat Feb 20, 2016 6:01 pm; edited 1 time in total
Car finally went into primer yesterday. Spent most the day just giving the panels a final sand to get off the phosphate coating I had put on for short term rust protection. Also gave the bare steel a good clean down and then masked the car off. Still need to do a final sand and acid treatment of the RH fender as I am not happy with it so didn't put the primer on. Also the bonnet is basically finished and ready for colour as the panel beater that helped me out for a couple of days felt bad about all the terrible things we did to it to get it to fit so primed, filled and blocked it back for me. Should get the bonnet back tomorrow for a photo but in the meantime here are some of the car from yesterday.
Bare, clean steel ready for primer
and in the clausens all-u-need
Just for those interested in the all-u-need for a 4 litre tin (or just under due to US conversion of gallons, ounces or whatever it is) it is costing me about $240. I still have about 800ml left and have basically given all the major body panels other than the RH fender a fairly good coat. With the last bit of the tin I will easily get a coat on the RH fender and then I will use the second tin I have to start building thickness. I haven't painted any of the add on bits like the valances and headlight extensions so may need a third tin for those. If the car was a coupe or fastback and had a roof I think you would definitely need three tins.
Should get back tomorrow to finish the RH fender and then build some more thickness into the rest of the primer.
Another quick update.
Got the finished bonnet back and all it needs is a light sand and it is ready for colour.
As I mentioned in the previous post I wasn't happy with the RH fender. I had hit it with an acid treatment but wasn't convinced with the end result. Anyway I sanded it all back then gave it another acid treatment which seemed to work a lot better this time, then I sanded it bare again ready for the all-u-need. The pics are of the fender after the acid treatment. It looks horrendous but supposidly it is the done thing. I hate having to clean the acid off a bare panel with water as it just makes me feel like it is going to flash rust before my eyes.
Happy with the fender i moved on to the car and gave it a quick sand just to key the primer up as it had been almost 48hrs since the initial coats. The spec sheet for the all-u-need says there is never a need to sand between coats but I rang the shop I boought it from and he said even though he has read that and the reps have told him the same thing he has never been game to try it. Better to be safe then sorry at this stage so I keyed it up with some old 80 grit on the orbital.
I then managed to get a good three coats of primer on the car and two and a half on the fresh quarter panel so should have built plenty of thickness into it. Unfortunately I forgot to take photos but it doesn't really look any different to the shots at the end of the last post.
Next step will be to give the car a light block to find the spots that still need a bit of fill. Extremely happy at this stage to have the car at a point where it is sealed up and can sit until I am ready to get back to it.
There has been a small hiatus in progress with Caroline as a couple of small distractions have been consuming most of my spare time for the last 4 months.
Actually this write up may turn to shit as I am wrangling one of them as I type.
Anyhow I managed to work in some shed time last week and make another step forward with Caroline. Not the most exciting work but fairly rewarding as the car got its first block back and some of the minor imperfections evened out with a bit of fill. I decided to pay the spray painter/panel beater that helped me out a few months ago to come back and give me a hand for one of the days just to get things started and give me some pointers. Anyhow between him and myself we got most the blocking and filler work done in that first day and then I just spent another couple of days going back over some fill he had added and finishing of a few spots myself before cleaning the car down and masking it off again for another coat of all-u-need.
A few of the work in progress
Managed to get the door lines really nice. Just a little bit to go on the RH side which the second coat of all-u-need might even fix up.
One of the things I forgot to do before all the blocking was the washer mod for the rear quarter panel extensions. Anyway I managed to get time to weld some washers inside the trunk and then I spaced the extensions off the body with some more washers on the outside before giving everything a blow down and wipe over ready for more all-u-need
Now the all-u-need application didn't start off too well but i did get it sorted eventually, unfortunately I haven't got time to go into detail now as B1 has just shit himself and B2 is screaming. Happy mustanging
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