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Mustang Technical Discussion > Pre 1973 > Engine shenanigans... > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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trav68
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Just pulled a 289 apart for a local mustang owner and found some interesting previous work and wear:

One pre mid 66 style head (integral pushrod guides) on one bank and one mid 1966 onwards style head on the other bank. Atleast they were fitted with the correct rail/non-rail type rockers.


Badly worn rocker studs (and rocker pads generally as per above photo)


One screw in stud (therefore requiring a few extra spacer washers under the rocker lock nut)


Big ends due for replacement


Valve tip wear


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boofhead
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You get all to good fun stuff to do.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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hybrid
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Wow that things done some miles I would say.


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Jiffy
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would like to see the photos, but only get black 'x' ?


2002 SVT Cobra, 2003 Drive train, hood, bumpers, boot & spoiler, side scoops and soon - interior!!
1969 CJ 4 Speed car under restoration
0423 977 057

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trav68
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If you right click "open link in new window" that should open up my Photobucket account.

Cheers,
Trav


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trav68
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Had a bit of scope creep at the machine shop because everything was so worn out. Block ended up going to 40 thou with one bore requiring a sleeve and decks needed a clean up. Machine shop found a less worn 289 crank (still required a grind to clean up).

Bearing clearances came in nicely at 2 thou




After some deliberation with Boof we settled on a Lunati Voodoo 10350701LK cam (213/219 @ 50 thou) which matches the Edelbrock E-Street heads nicely and is conservative with respect to valvesprings.

Cam all dialed in:


PV checks all done:


Pushrods measured in at 6.860' so will use a Comp Cams High Energy 6.881" set as these are very attractively priced being an OEM set.



Short all but done:


Only hurdle left is to resolve a lack of camshaft end float/thrust plate compatibility issue. The original thrust plate (matched to the old Rollmaster set) is too thick for the cam gear of the new Cloyes set I have purchased. I had a spare later model plate setup for countersunk screws and a torrington bearing which when installed provides 4 thou end float but just required a touch of grinding on one ear to clear the cam sprocket.


This later cam thrust plate also has the additional oil gallery to this plugged distributor/oil pump port which I am thinking of removing (research pending).




Once this thrust plate is sorted will button up the short and install the heads after I have sourced some Felpro 1011-1 gaskets these evening then on the home straight....


Last edited by trav68 on Tue Nov 10, 2015 3:41 pm; edited 1 time in total

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boofhead
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I would unplug the oil feed to the cam thrust plate plus (assuming your not running a torrington bearing double roller chain) I would drill a 32 thou hole in the thrust plate [though the oil troff] so the oil gets to both sides of the thrust plate so it has oil where the Cam rubs on the plate as well as where the chain rubs on the thrust plate. Lastly I would also drill a 32 thou hole in the Lifter gallery oil plug so oil drips down onto the Cam/ Distributor gear.

Glad to see the plan start to come together.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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trav68
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Something like this boof...






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hybrid
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Looks great


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nassi
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You are doing a fine job Trav.


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boofhead
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trav68 wrote
Something like this boof...




Exactly (assuming you pulled or drilled out the oil plug behind cam retainer) - The hole in the cam retainer needs to be covered by chain sprocket. I normally drill a little closer to the edge - only by a small amount.
Note: To those reading - if your using a torrington bearing timing chain you would not bother with drilling the extra hole in the cam retaining plate. The picture is a little odd because you absolutely only need the counter sunk bolts modification to the cam retaining plate when using a torrington bearing timing chain.

BTW: Very pretty motor indeed. Your doing such good work I think I will send my motor to you next time. Very Happy .


I will someday think of something clever to say.

Last edited by boofhead on Fri Nov 13, 2015 11:05 pm; edited 1 time in total

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trav68
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Yeah punched out the small gallery plug.

I am only using this retainer plate because I had it spare. It is cast so similar hardness to the cast cam sprocket rather than a hardened steel style unit.

That retainer hole is definitely covered by the cam sprocket.


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boofhead
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Excellent (as usual) on all accounts. I am looking forward to hearing the results. Should be a very nice street engine.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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trav68
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Final piece of the jigsaw puzzle is underway. With the milled (54cc) heads and (decked) block did a intake mock up to check port alignment which requires a quick skim in the mill to correct to get the intake sitting deeper into the valley. End rails/china wall clearance is perfect as is.





Last edited by trav68 on Tue Nov 17, 2015 4:02 pm; edited 2 times in total

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boofhead
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Good thing it is a 45 deg angle so it is easy to calc the amount to take off. I would be interested in the cost (approximately is ok) to get it milled.

Note: You may need to ream the bolt holes a little larger though many after market manifold are a little generous in that area so your likely going to be fine.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

Last edited by boofhead on Tue Nov 17, 2015 5:22 pm; edited 1 time in total

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