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Q&A > General Tech Advice > Door alignment advice > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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66STNG
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Me again,
Having some issues with my door gaps on the 66 coupe.
Repo doors, the gap from door to quarter is good, door to rocker is very poor. The gap is very large at the back of the door and tapers right down to nearly touching the rocker at the front.
The car is on a rottisserie, is this the issue????


66 basket case

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hybrid
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You really should have the car on it's wheels or on stands to align the panels.


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66STNG
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Aw crap,
i knew you were going to say that...


66 basket case

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xpconnor
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hybrid wrote
You really should have the car on it's wheels or on stands to align the panels.


And even then you may still have to add some weld along the edge of the door.


"The Mustang is full of Awesome"

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StephenSLR
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66STNG wrote
Repo doors


xpconnor wrote
And even then you may still have to add some weld along the edge of the door.




s


Listen to my band here: www.reverbnation.com/LYCANTHIA

Last edited by StephenSLR on Mon Aug 24, 2015 11:40 am; edited 3 times in total

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66STNG
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Ewwwwwwwwww, my doors dont look that bad, they line up beter than that. i put on the LH door and it is good and the gap at the bottom is even. so the obvious question is how do i weld the left hand door to make the gap even?


66 basket case

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StephenSLR
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66STNG wrote
the obvious question is how do i weld the left hand door to make the gap even?




s


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Last edited by StephenSLR on Mon Aug 24, 2015 12:15 pm; edited 3 times in total

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ozbilt
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StephenSLR wrote
66STNG wrote
the obvious question is how do i weld the left hand door to make the gap even?




s


Whatever you do, what is shown in that video is absolutely the last resort. He has got himself in that bad position by incorrectly fitting or repairing the quarter panel. I have been in this trade for almost 48 years & have had to " add a weld" to probably less than 4 doors in my whole career. I can remember at least 2 & 1 was accident damaged, the other was a really badly fitted skin.

Guy, do not attempt to fit ANY panels until the shell is off the rotisserie & well supported (ie; flat & level) on the ground. You do not have a hope in hell of getting it anywhere near correct while it is mounted on the spit.


Kerry

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Last edited by ozbilt on Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:05 pm; edited 1 time in total

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66STNG
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Ok Kerry.
i will drop the car off the rotisserie and refit the panels again when its back on the ground. ill see how it lines up then.
thanks for the guidance gents..


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StephenSLR
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ozbilt wrote
Whatever you do, what is shown in that video is absolutely the last resort.


I've seen other methods, trimming a close gap and building it back with weld (risking distorting the panel)





and getting a laser straight gap using bog.



ozbilt wrote
do not attempt to fit ANY panels until the shell is off the rotisserie & well supported (ie; flat & level) on the ground.


... and fit window mechanism, door glass, etc. I've heard of guys putting in weights (simulating a complete door) to weigh down an empty door for alignment.

s


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ozbilt
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StephenSLR wrote
ozbilt wrote
Whatever you do, what is shown in that video is absolutely the last resort.


I've seen other methods, trimming a close gap and building it back with weld (risking distorting the panel)





and getting a laser straight gap using bog.



ozbilt wrote
do not attempt to fit ANY panels until the shell is off the rotisserie & well supported (ie; flat & level) on the ground.


... and fit window mechanism, door glass, etc. I've heard of guys putting in weights (simulating a complete door) to weigh down an empty door for alignment.

s


Again, that is all crap. There is rarely any need to "weld" on an edge. Usually solder will build up any edge closing a gap that hammering will not do. If you look at that MG TC thread I did, you will see that I used lead to form the LH door top to the correct shape (same as the factory did). Remember when watching any US video, they have not trained apprentices post WWII, so the correct method of doing things has been lost.

As for putting weights in the door, how about just put the bloody thing together (as you should do, because repro doors usually need some tweeks to make everything fit PRIOR to paint) ?

Just about every thread here where people have talked about repro door, I have advised them to COMPLETELY assemble them, to check fit & correct issues, before paint.

With your doors Guy, I recommend you completely assemble them while you chase the gaps. There are no short cuts in this process.

Tell me I am ranting, but it pisses me off when these videos promote misinformation ...... Argh


Kerry

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StephenSLR
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ozbilt wrote
Tell me I am ranting, but it pisses me off when these videos promote misinformation


Not at all; it's all good advice, I agree about trade secrets lost over time and I thought the same thing; why not assemble the doors in the first place? lol.

s


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66STNG
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Totally agree Oz, as you know I'm a novice and always ask for advise as there are three ways to do things.
The wrong way
The easy way,
Then there is the right way, this method is usually sourced from ranting old farts who really know there stuff.
Again thanks for the info, will get right onto getting the car on all 4's.


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jusTANG
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Oz like Fish and Chips in the gong

😉


Cheers,
j

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