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Other > Other Projects > BA falcon ignition switch repair > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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goldscode
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So as the heading says , my traybacks ign switch works but doesn't return properly , from what ive read its a common fault , anybody here done this ??
Had quotes of $900 to $1100 seems a bit severe , anybody got a link on a How To ,
cheers Ralph


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scott66stang
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Not sure if its the same issue my daughter had with her commodore where the key was stiff to turn and would not return on start, also difficult to remove from ignition. A common problem and repair method that worked is to squirt graphite powder from repco into the key hole and it all freed up.


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hybrid
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Yes it's common. My brothers BA XR8 ignition switch crapped itself.
He had the same kinda quotes, because you have to change the whole column or something. It's bloody ridiculous.

I'll call him and find out what he did.


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hybrid
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Ok, just had a chat to him.
He says if they are quoting $900-1100 FITTED, make sure it's a new column they are quoting.
He bought a brand new BF column for around $950 from this bloke:
www.ebay.com.au/itm/BA...3cd9dc69b5

The BF column has a removable switch, unlike the BA.

Now - he actually managed to repair his BA column once and it lasted 3 more years.
If you want to have a go at this yourself, he says it's not that big a job. 1-1.5hrs to remove your column (which you would have to do to change over to BF anyway).

Here is the issue.
The BA ignition switches have an aluminium body with a plastic back on them where all the contacts etc are. The plastic backing is crimped to the aluminium body with some "tangs". In fact, this is how my mustang one is done too!
Anyway, over time, the plastic backing works loose and some of the detent balls (which make your ignition switch "click" in to each position) come loose and move into the wrong spot, stopping your switch moving where it's supposed to.

You can remove your column and repair the switch. My brother said his would probably still have been OK if he took the column out originally instead of repairing it in place because he could have done a much better job.

Take the column out and release the crimps to let the plastic backing come off. You might need some vasoline/grease to hold the balls and springs in where they are supposed to be. Once it's all in place, replace the plastic backing and crimp in place.
My brother suggests even using some araldite etc to help hold the plastic part in place in future. Rough up the plastic and alloy with rough sandpaper to help it stick. He also said that if he had removed his column he would have tried to put a small screw or something through the body and plastic (which is apparently quite thick) to hold it in place, but glue should suffice.

Let me know if you need any more info. He was talking about possibly joining up here.


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donoauto
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The spring in the electrical part of the switch breaks causing the key not to return to ignition position. Can't buy the electrical part cause it doesn't separate from the column.
I get 2nd hand columns & fit to the car. You only need the top section of the column - doesn't go as far as the firewall.
If you head that way, you NEED the 2nd hand one to have a key for the ignition switch so you can pull out the old ignition barrel & fit your original key barrel to the new column. That way the immobiliser isn't upset & 1 key still fits everything.

Many people just live with it & manually pull the key back to ignition. The falcons won't let the starter engage after the engine is running so there is no chance of screwing a starter motor.

I read in a trade website earlier last month that there is some mob in Brisbane able to repair them now but I don't know of a cost. I'll try to fong the info & post up here.

I usually pay around $120-$220 for a 2nd hand top half of the steering column, depending on the wrecker.

There is a catch as far as there are 2 different columns in the BA's - they look the same but the is a 8mm difference in the length of the rotating part that comes out from the stationary part. I drop the column down (3 10mm bolts from memory) & get a part number off the top of the column (it's on a yellow big sticker) & quote that to the wrecker so I get the right one.

0407019079 if you want to discuss.
Cheers,
Dono


(PRAYER) Oh thank you Wild Turkey American Honey & Cola in those small thin bottles, for giving me the strength to act like a half wit, and say stupid things at inappropriate times, semi-anonymously, on a public forum.
Amen.

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scott66stang
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Actually i just remembered i fixed my other daughters BF falcon ignition switch, cant remember to much about it except that the back of the switch retainers failed and the back had popped out.Was a fiddly job getting it back on with small springs and possibly ball bearings popping out. I did end up taking the column out after a few failed attempts while in the car and then bodged it up. Cant remember if it was just a case of bending the tabs back over or if i used a glue of some sort, but it has lasted about 4 years and she has only just traded it in on a Prado.

I remember finding some instructions with pics on the Australian Ford Forum


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moe
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scott66stang wrote
I remember finding some instructions with pics on the Australian Ford Forum

Like
www.fordforums.com.au/...umn+repair


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scott66stang
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moe wrote
scott66stang wrote
I remember finding some instructions with pics on the Australian Ford Forum

Like
www.fordforums.com.au/...umn+repair


Ahh! yes thats it......... all comes back to me now looking at those pics, luckily she didnt vacuum the floor and i found the springs......Memories Argh


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goldscode
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Thanks boys , looks like ill have to log on to yet another forum ,

Always had a little gremlin in this thing , sometimes when you started it the motor and tach would ping up to 2 grand and stay there till I shut it off start again and behave no problem , every now and then would stall for no reason , shut off, start again no wuckers , think this has been the problem all along , so called Ford Technicians wouldn't know their arse from their elbow,
cheers Ralph


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donoauto
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goldscode wrote
Thanks boys , looks like ill have to log on to yet another forum ,

Always had a little gremlin in this thing , sometimes when you started it the motor and tach would ping up to 2 grand and stay there till I shut it off start again and behave no problem , every now and then would stall for no reason , shut off, start again no wuckers , think this has been the problem all along , so called Ford Technicians wouldn't know their arse from their elbow,
cheers Ralph


Battery voltage is critical in these things & can/may be the cause of the problems above. Even if they sound great cranking, another battery fixes a lot of these weird issues I strike on a daily basis. The voltage can often fall to a level low enough to upset the microprocessors found in just about everything these days. Only seems to be for a fraction of a second when the starter first engages & most of the time they sound fine when starting.

Power Win Automotive in Banyo/QLD 07 32678998 is the mob that have exchange columns on the shelf for BA & BF Falcons - no Territory stuff on shelf (rare as rocking horse shit to find) but can recondition them.


(PRAYER) Oh thank you Wild Turkey American Honey & Cola in those small thin bottles, for giving me the strength to act like a half wit, and say stupid things at inappropriate times, semi-anonymously, on a public forum.
Amen.

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donoauto
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Also, the coil packs on the BA's are responsible for running issues. Mine used to either cut the engine altogether or stick me into limp mode when I used to give it some slightly aggressive throttle. Also did occasionally stall after starting. Replaced all coil packs & spark plugs - fault fixed.
The science? - Most of the coils will have a hairline crack down the side. They falter & send a back EMF (voltage spike) to the engine ECU & upset it. The engine ECU has a feedback from each coil so it can log a fault if a cylinder has a misfire. A scan tool can tell you which cylinder but not for the above fault. Generally there is no faults to be found with a scan tool.


(PRAYER) Oh thank you Wild Turkey American Honey & Cola in those small thin bottles, for giving me the strength to act like a half wit, and say stupid things at inappropriate times, semi-anonymously, on a public forum.
Amen.

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donoauto
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Don't forget the option of just turning the key back to ignition position by hand to get radio/ A/C / wipers back again. Costs ya nothing


(PRAYER) Oh thank you Wild Turkey American Honey & Cola in those small thin bottles, for giving me the strength to act like a half wit, and say stupid things at inappropriate times, semi-anonymously, on a public forum.
Amen.

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hybrid
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My brothers one wouldn't turn all the way off, so his battery kept going flat. It was stuck on accessories.


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goldscode
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donoauto wrote
Don't forget the option of just turning the key back to ignition position by hand to get radio/ A/C / wipers back again. Costs ya nothing


Yep exactly what im doin , kinda like a redneck imobiliser , use the thing 24/7 so it can wait , thanks again Spot On


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xpconnor
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donoauto wrote
Also, the coil packs on the BA's are responsible for running issues. Mine used to either cut the engine altogether or stick me into limp mode when I used to give it some slightly aggressive throttle. Also did occasionally stall after starting. Replaced all coil packs & spark plugs - fault fixed.
The science? - Most of the coils will have a hairline crack down the side. They falter & send a back EMF (voltage spike) to the engine ECU & upset it. The engine ECU has a feedback from each coil so it can log a fault if a cylinder has a misfire. A scan tool can tell you which cylinder but not for the above fault. Generally there is no faults to be found with a scan tool.


You can wrap the coil packs in electrical tape (or at least you can on nissan RB engines) and it temporarily fixes the problem. It can be handy to use to diagnose if it is in fact the coil packs that are playing up.


"The Mustang is full of Awesome"

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