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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Operation Megasquirt! > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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boofhead
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I will see if I can upload a MSQ tonight that I have set up for a mild 302 using 19lb injectors. I might create a new project and update it for your setup. I use a GM stepper motor so I will change that to Ford Unit and also need to change the settings for fixed duty and lastly change the port that drives an electric fan.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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hybrid
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Pretty sure the pins are the same, but either way, that's still not going to cause the error on start up if that's what you are querying.


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Shaunp
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Hey Boofhead, got a set of injection and dissy, on an engine" falcon" at Gav's we won't be needing it, if you or John want it for parts for the FB's


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hybrid
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I've added this to the web links section, but for those doing custom injection, this page may come in handy when searching for injectors.

users.erols.com/srweis...bleifc.htm


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boofhead
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Shaunp wrote
Hey Boofhead, got a set of injection and dissy, on an engine" falcon" at Gav's we won't be needing it, if you or John want it for parts for the FB's


Shaun - thanks for the offer. Might be useful as I want/need to set up an injector test bed. Also, want to use it for calculating injector dead time. Juts need to gather the parts to build it.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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boofhead
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hybrid wrote
I've added this to the web links section, but for those doing custom injection, this page may come in handy when searching for injectors.

users.erols.com/srweis...bleifc.htm


Good site - I have used it myself to help identify injectors.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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gbx78
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ok not much to report. I tried the new MSQ file that boofhead uploaded and this worked with only 1 error


Invalid MAP sampling angles. Needs to be less than 180deg for a 4cyl or 90deg for a V8 etc.


i changed the sampling angle from 90.0 to 89.9 and then power cycled and i have a running engine (well using the stimulator) ..

unsure why it wouldnt accept 90.0 and had to literally be less than 90deg and not sure what this actually means .. but it works.

one question which im sure is a noob question .. when i play with the TPS dial it moves around but this does NOT change engine RPM. I have to change the RPM using the dial..

i "thought" if i increased TPS (like putting my foot on the accel pedal) this would in turn increase the engine RPM .. but it doesnt..

does it not work that way? or what am i missing?


'You can never test fire too many times.' - Hybrid

'You can never have too many gauges' -
Boofhead

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hybrid
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When you put your foot down, the TPS doesn't make your engine spin faster.
It would be nice if that's what happened... we wouldn't need fuel.

What about if you're towing up a hill? You can put your foot further down... doesn't mean you're going to get any more RPM.


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gbx78
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hybrid wrote
When you put your foot down, the TPS doesn't make your engine spin faster.
It would be nice if that's what happened... we wouldn't need fuel.

What about if you're towing up a hill? You can put your foot further down... doesn't mean you're going to get any more RPM.


ahhhh yes .. ok .. i assumed its purpose or function incorrectly!! that makes sense when you put it like that.


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boofhead
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My fault. I had the map running on MS EXtra 3.2.1 in the Car so I created a project for 3.2.4 imported the MSQ and made a few changes for your setup. My other car I have it set to read at 40 deg for a period of 10 deg. This can be set later when you have a log of the MAP values and your map reading timing to see if you get the lowest peek for the cycle on each read. It is going to be different for every car as the intake manifold and Cam influences the Map sensor value (and curve). No point worrying now as your MAP reading will be stable (given it is reading Air pressure and not vacuum on the bench).

Map value (assuming you are using Speed density mode) is (one of) your most important sensor values. Very important. You will see the value read (the sample for that 10 deg) is used on most of one side of the main tuning tables. Get a tube and try placing a vacuum and turn the RPM up and see the dot dance around the different fuel table cells. You will also see the injector pulse widths change. Lots of fun - just do not go blue in the face.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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gbx78
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boofhead wrote
My fault. I had the map running on MS EXtra 3.2.1 in the Car so I created a project for 3.2.4 imported the MSQ and made a few changes for your setup. My other car I have it set to read at 40 deg for a period of 10 deg. This can be set later when you have a log of the MAP values and your map reading timing to see if you get the lowest peek for the cycle on each read. It is going to be different for every car as the intake manifold and Cam influences the Map sensor value (and curve). No point worrying now as your MAP reading will be stable (given it is reading Air pressure and not vacuum on the bench).

Map value (assuming you are using Speed density mode) is (one of) your most important sensor values. Very important. You will see the value read (the sample for that 10 deg) is used on most of one side of the main tuning tables. Get a tube and try placing a vacuum and turn the RPM up and see the dot dance around the different fuel table cells. You will also see the injector pulse widths change. Lots of fun - just do not go blue in the face.


ooooo ok .. yes thats right the plug on the MS is a MAP sensor for a vaccum line.. this should be a cool party trick Very Happy


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gbx78
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ok cause i like pictures and diagrams i found this online which is pretty close to how mine will be connected.

Although i still dont know how the Idle Air control will be setup. I think thats that grey cylinder thing on the side of the throttle body and im sur emine has 2 pins on it but the relay board and examples all use 4 pins so ill have to suss that part out but ive essentially got everything hooked up to the relay board correctly using the labelled wire bundle.

Im yet to see how i will integrate this with my existing wiring loom, i guess there will be some wiring used by megasquirt that i wont require to hook up using the AAW kit (like Coil related wiring) as the megasquirt will now be controlling this .. so essentially just need the main feeds from the relay board, engine ground, 12v bat and 12v switched .. engine ground and 12v batter speak for themselves so its really just the 12v switched which i assume would be hooked up to ignition or a form of switched power (accessory?..first click turn off the key?)

so really then the AAW kit only supplies power and wiring for gauges and lights, alt, NSS, starter stuff, accessory stuff .. while the MS manages the engine (with if required its own sensor related wiring seperate to the gauge senders)..

the more i look at it and read the more it slowly makes sense and i can see where things are should something fail.



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boofhead
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You are correct your fIdle is the grey tube on the side of the throttle body. It is a standard ford unit. It only requires the two wires. The Megasquirt can be steup to drive fIdle or drive a multi-pin (usually 4) stepper. In your case your using the fIdle so you have 4 extra pins that could be reassigned to other functions. The FIdle connects to the sixth connector of the relay board. You have the other side wired to power.

The advantage of using the relay board is you only need the Ground, Switched power (which is a splice into the wiring as ignition on wire 12v), and 12 V power. Minimal splicing into the main harness - in fact one. Makes it very easy to chase any wiring issues. I advise you use separate sensors for the gauges and the EFI.

Otherwise, fairly simple process.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

Last edited by boofhead on Fri Mar 08, 2013 12:09 pm; edited 1 time in total

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gbx78
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boofhead wrote
You are correct your fIdle is the grey tube on the side of the throttle body. It is a standard ford unit. It only requires the two wires. The Megasquirt can be steup to drive fIdle or drive a multi-pin (usually 4) stepper. In your case your using the fIdle so you have 4 extra pins that could be reassigned to other functions. The FIdle comes of the sixth connector of the relay board. You have the other side wired to power.

The advantage of using the relay board is you only need the Ground, Switched power (which is a splice into the wiring as ignition on wire 12v), and 12 V power. Minimal splicing into the main harness - in fact one. Makes it very easy to chase any wiring issues. I advise you use separate sensors for the gauges and the EFI.

Otherwise, fairly simple process.


ahhh yes i did read "stepper" which is 4 pin .. i think thats what confused me i wasnt sure what id be using.

yep i have seperate sensors for the EFI which i bought from megasquirt to suit.. the only shared one is the O2 sensor which comes with the AFR gauge .. which i found there is a threaded bung on the collector of my headers that "looked" welded shut but a crack at it with the hammer and spanner saw it come loose and i un threaded.. hopelly same thread.

see what happens .. at least im on the right track with my mindset thusfar yet still miles to go


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gbx78
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ok appologies if i have asked this already,

my main AAW harness has a coil and tach wire .. my megasquirt wiring harness (and relay board) also has a thick shielded wire that has 2 smaller wires inside that has coil printed ontop .. and i think there is also another spot on the relay board for a tach.

so am i understanding that the coil and tach wires from the AAW harness are now obsolete and i (obviously) use the wires and terminals on the relay board to now wire the coil and tach .. like the diagram above? .. i have everything wired up except for a few things like a fuel pump relay, and the thick white coil wire from the megasquirt harness that has 2 smaller wires inside as i dont know where to actually wire them.


'You can never test fire too many times.' - Hybrid

'You can never have too many gauges' -
Boofhead

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