It looks likely I will be picking up my new engine this Friday . This has got me thinking about whether I should look at upgrading the radiator so i don't cook a brand new 363. Going up to a rad from a 67 looks like a good choice but what do I need to do in the engine bay to accomodate it? From what I have read I will need to spin the battery tray around. Can I do this to a 65 tray or do I just buy a 67 tray and make it fit? And do I need to cut the hole for the rad out larger or can I just fit it and leave some of it covered behind the front sheet metal of the engine bay? Will this reduce it's cooling capacity too much? Any other mods that are required to get it all to work or am I better to just stick with a 65 rad if it will do the job?
Any help from those that have done it or have and opinion on it would be appreciated.
The inner skirt where the battery tray is, a different shape on 67 on cars, so I would think you will need to reshape this to turn the battery, and yes you trim the opening some what to suit the larger rad, was down at Fataz today I think Woody said your engine has left the building. he has a brand new 67 FB shell there still in the crate for a race car build, I wanted to check out.
Hmmm.. Didn't realise the front apron was going to interfere with the battery quite so much. Anyway I think it is probably a worthwhile mod unless there is a better option?
Does anyone have the dimensions of a 67 radiator? I might mock one up out of cardboard and just have a play around and make sure I am confident I can do it before I cough up the money for a new radiator.
Can I mod the 65 battery tray for this or should I buy a 67 tray? I will be able to have a look at it over the weekend but if someone has already tried and found it didn't work I'd rather just buy a 67 battery tray and sell the 65 one before I butcher it.
Sorry to bring this up again and I know the debate between aluminium and copper rads has been played out all over the web but below is the process I went through today and where my thinking is at the moment. I guess from this i just want to get an idea if I am completely mad going for the option below or is it worth a try and then if no good I will have to fork out the bigger coin for possibly something like the PWR option. Read on if you can be bothered with the whole topic again.
I was speaking to my parts supplier today and I think he may have changed my mind about the 67 radiator mod. Of course there is the work involved in doing it and whilst I think I am capable it is still one more thing that would need to be done adding to the time I need to put in. But he also assures me that I won't have overheating problems if I run an aluminium 3 core rad with shroud and good 5 blade fan saying he has supplied them to a number of people including guys from the shop and they never have a problem with overheating.
He gave me the name of an old supplier of them that has since changed hands but I managed to find the below rad which I believe are the ones he was using.
I also rang PWR as I noticed they had a 65 rad with opposing inlets and outlets on their website. The guy I spoke to on the phone said they now use a two core but with bigger fins as three core is the old school thinking and can be hard to get air through in traffic. Although I think the PWR rad would be good it was around the $960 mark.
Anyway I did a bit more reading and there are some concerns about the thickness of a 3 core aluminium rad but as the parts guy said don't go off heresay actually talk to people that have used them. Soooo has anyone used a 3 core aluminium rad? Did it work? Am I mad?
I will admit I am almost at the suck it and see stage.
All you can do is give it a shot and see how it goes. Should it work fine. Yes. Will it work fine - who knows - probably.
Modern alloy radiators use a longer row. It is about twice the length than the older style and copper radiators do. So I am not convinced the thickness is any different from a two row with a 1" length row verses a 3 row 1/2" row - though I do agree there will be more water exposed to the ait and fins in the modern two row then the older style 3 row.
I have a standard copper 65 radiator with an integrated high power electric fan and shroud sitting in the corner of the shed. It worked fine cooling my mildly build 302. I decided to use a alloy cross flow as a replacement just because I wanted to rather there being any main reason for the change. If your interested I am sure we can come to an agreement.
Forgot all about this sorry. The normal width one might be OK. Particularly if you're not running aircon.
Personally, I absolutely HAAAAAAATE overheating cars, so I wanted to make sure it didn't happen and went with the bigger size.
You could argue that if the smaller rads were good enough for an engine bigger than 289, why did ford go bigger from 67 onwards?
If you decide to go bigger, let me know and I'll get that photo of the battery tray for you.
I found these PWR ones in the USA which are a lot more reasonably priced then the aus PWR one. Says you have to call as they generally don't ship OS. Any other brands that you recommend. Looked up Desert coolers but there is quite a bit of negative stuff about them on google.
Just dont look at Aussie Desert Kettles (Coolers)!
When i built the 67 i figured that they would be the biggest, baddest rad you could buy.
Paid the extra and got it highly polished and went with the alloy shroud and twin thermos.
Cost a bomb but looked shit hot!
After months of dicking around trying to get it to run cool (probably cost me 2k between the initial purchase and all the work) I ended up pulling it out and replacing it with a much thiner alloy unit that cost me $400 bucks.
havent had a problem since then.
even on a 40deg day she runs cool in traffic.
The logos and trademarks used on this site are the property of their respective owners.
We are not responsible for comments, advice, opinions, products or services posted by our members, as they are the property of the poster.